Champagne Pommery, a Grandeur by a Lady
PERSONAL NOTE: This article was deliberately published the day after President Trump threatened to put in a 200% tariff on all wines, champagnes, and alcoholic products coming out of France and other E.U. represented countries, claiming that “The European Union, one of the most hostile and abusive taxing and tariffing authorities in the World, which was formed for the sole purpose of taking advantage of the United States, has just put a nasty 50% Tariff on Whisky.” By the way, in America, the correct spelling is “whiskey.” He continued with “This will be great for the Wine and Champagne businesses in the U.S.” Well champagne business in the U.S. is extremely limited as there is only one company that can use the word “champagne” on its label because of an historical loophole, and it is not a very good one.
Women’s History Month, March 14th, 2025
In 2025, women still complain that they are not treated equally to men. Imagine in 1858, when Madame Pommery took over Pommery & Greco after the death of her husband, and she was adamant to create a different wine.
In July 1868, Madame Pommery instigates the “construction site of the century” in Reims with the metamorphosis of the crayères chalkpits into cellars—18 kilometers of galleries at 30 meters below ground. She created unique cellars allowing to store and age thousands of bottles in a temperature-controlled environment (a constant 10 °C). The chalk keeps humidity during summer and restitue heat in winter. Many other Champagne houses followed in her footsteps.
Madame Pommery was also a social visionary. Champagne Pommery one of the first companies in France to create retirement and health funds for its employees. Louise Pommery, who passed away in 1890, was the first woman to receive a French state funeral.
Quality, quality, quality
Quality was her driven force. In order to remain at the very of top of the Champagne world, over the years, Madame Pommery assembled a collection of the finest vineyards in all of Champagne.
Nowadays, under the direction of Chef de Cave Clément Pierlot, Champagne Pommery produces five cuvées, with, of course, distinct specifications for each of them.
A Champagne revolution: Brut Champagne
If the portrait of Madame Pommery occupies so much space on the page, it is to recognize her for having invented Brut Champagne!
Champagne Pommery Nature was saw light from the barrels in 1874, the first brut champagne ever. It became an immediate commercial success. It disrupted the tradition of very sweet wine. Champagne Pommery likes to honor her by saying “The purity and the finesse of Pommery wines perpetuate Madame Pommery’s legacy.” Brut Champagne is, by far, the most popular Champagne style on the world. Cheers to Madame Pommery!
Video © Champagne Pommery
Brut Champagne Definition
To be considered “brut”, the finished bottle needs to have anywhere between zero and 12 grams per liter of residual added sugar. Brut is the driest, meaning the least sweet, category of Champagne.
Note: Despite its name, Extra-dry Champagne is actually sweeter than Brut Champagne. Extra-dry Champagne, or Extra-sec, is less dry than Brut Champagne. Extra-dry Champagne contains more added sugar, between 12 and 17 grams per liter. Dry, Demi-sec, or Doux are even sweeter and are often served as dessert wines.
Champagne Pommery Brut Apanage 1874
Photos © Champagne Pommery
Origin: Reims, France
Varietal: 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier
Price: $100.00
ABV: 12.5%
The Apanage 1874 cuvée is Champagne Pommery’s Gastronomic Cuvée. It has been designed specifically for and dedicated to fine dining. The current release is a blend of three vintages, 2012, 2015 and 2018. It celebrates the 150th anniversary of Brut Champagne.
The Champagne Brut Apanage 1874 is made with a selection of 17 Grands Crus and Premiers Crus. It is aged a minimum of 4 years in the chalk cellars and 6 months after disgorging. The sugar dosage is 9 g/l (brut).
On the eye, the champagne is brilliant and shines with tiny bubbles; which by the way, I like very much as it makes a much more elegant champagne. The elegance continues on the nose with fresh, subtle and delicate aromas of orange blossom. Your palate will enjoy a soft and round liquid with a creamy finish, and of vanilla and pear flavors.
From Champagne Pommery’s Instagram account
From France to America
Video © Champagne Pommery
In June 2024, the sailboat Grain de Sail left the port of Saint-Malo, France, with a prestigious cargo: the first pallet of Apanage Brut 1874 cuvées from the Champagne Maison Pommery, bound for the United States. The boat arrived in New York in September.
This exceptional sea voyage revives an historic tradition. Just 120 years ago, the first bottles of Pommery Champagne arrived in America by sailboat, aboard the Foudre de Gale.
> For more information, visit Champagne Pommery official website.
