What does a big-city chef know about lakeside eats? Turns out, plenty. Mark McEwan — the name behind Diwan, Bymark and Top Chef Canada — is revamping the Boathouse Restaurant at Taboo Muskoka, a storied resort with postcard views and a top-ranked golf course. With a résumé that spans fine dining. With a résumé that spans fine dining and gourmet markets, McEwan’s new menuis laid-back, lake-friendly and still hits above par.
What does “elevated dining” mean in cottage country?
“Cottage country means different things to everyone. We have two restaurants in Thornbury, my longtime cottage spot. Muskoka is new for us — we’ve catered there for years but never had a full-time spot. Consistency is key, and typically a less fussy approach is best.Home-style cooking has always been our vision when dining in cottage country!”
You’ve said Muskoka has always been on your radar. What made this the moment?
“Great Gulf is the perfect partner; their vision and excitement was exactly the relationship we were looking for. The team behind Taboo is “boots on the ground,” and the McEwan team has been brought in to complement and elevate an already successful location. We look to put the resort back on the culinary map as a true Ontario dining destination.”
Do you approach a seasonal menu differently than a year-round city restaurant?
“The season is short, that’s for sure! I’d say it’s the same approach: highlight seasonal ingredients where you can but most importantly deliver a product people want to return for.”
You’re dining at the Boathouse. What’s the one dish you’d order for yourself and what are you pairing it with?
“Freshly made pasta and pizza [the new Margherita pizza, made with fior di latte, San Marzano tomatoes, and fresh basil, baked in the wood-fired oven, perfectly captures the spirit of the menu] overlooking Muskoka Bay, I couldn’t think of a better combo — and of course, a glass of Pinot Grigio in hand.”
