The Francis in Bath: Come for the new spa, stay for the refreshed hotel experience and local attractions.Adrian Wroth/Supplied
The spa town of Bath has been attracting tourists for more than 2,000 years, gaining notoriety when the Romans came to bathe in the U.K.’s only hot mineral springs. Today, more than six million people flock to the UNESCO World Heritage Site every year, drawn not only by the appeal of its healing waters but by Bath’s rich cultural and architectural history made famous by Jane Austen and, more recently, TV series such as Bridgerton.
Public thermal bathing can be found in the city’s popular Thermae Bath Spa, but the Francis (one of the city’s oldest hotels) has just opened a private spa experience as part of its massive refurbishment. The new spa – complete with private foam steam bath – is part of a year-long $26-million overhaul, which includes improvements to its 98 rooms and the opening of what already is one of Bath’s most outstanding restaurants.
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Why you should visit
The hotel’s overhaul included a new emphasis on staffing, and the service was exemplary.The Frances Hotel/Supplied
The Francis is one of the most convenient and centrally located addresses in the city, spread along one side of the honey-hued Georgian Queen Square.
In 1858, local builder Solomon Francis opened the first lodging house at No. 10 Queen Square and eventually took over neighbouring properties. After his death, Francis’s entrepreneurial widow, Emily, transformed the business into the Francis Private Hotel.
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Today, the Francis combines contemporary design with subtle references to Bath’s rich heritage. Our room, the John Wood suite (named after celebrated architect and visionary John Wood the Elder, who designed the building), included a flat-screen TV the length of one wall and a tan leather sofa, along with thoughtful additional touches such as a brand new yoga mat (which I promptly whisked to a hot yoga class at Shires Yard shopping centre).
Cornish scallops – a star of the Emberwood’s menu.The Frances Hotel/Supplied
Hotel restaurants can be hit and miss but not here. The hotel’s brasserie, Emberwood, and its adjoining cocktail bar both brim with locals, which speaks volumes. My partner and I happily watched the head bartender mix our Queen’s Martini (made with Cornish vermouth) and Emberwood Negroni (finished with black cardamom and saffron) while working our way through juicy fresh Cornish oysters, mushroom croquettes and huge, juicy gordal olives.
Everything at Emberwood is sourced from gardeners, farmers and gamekeepers across the southwest, and dinner included melt-in-your-mouth Cornish scallops and light, sweet chicken parfait followed by a plump, juicy charcoal-grilled sirloin for two. Our experience was so good we returned on Sunday for a standout English roast. Think crispy and puffy Yorkshire puddings and caramelized heritage carrots with salty pork belly and perfectly pink roast beef.
The overhaul also included a new emphasis on staffing, and the service was exemplary. Doormen and reception staff carry little cards with their own personal QR code linking to a list of recommendations of places to visit, a touch we loved.
Room for improvement
The Frances Hotel/Supplied
Our suite was impressive in size but lacked the ambience of some others – the windows and gauze curtains and pelmets felt like they belonged a meeting room – and we could hear the thud of music from the bar into the night, which was slightly irritating.
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
From the Roman Baths to iconic Royal Crescent to the Jane Austen Centre – all of Bath’s attractions are a short walk away.
Bath Abbey is a must-visit; the view from the tower is spectacular. The main shopping area brims with boutiques, artisan food shops, restaurants and museums, including the Holburne Musuem (which Bridgerton fans know as Lady Danbury’s home). The Jane Austen Centre is a block away from the Francis, and every September the Jane Austen Festival features balls, talks and tours. During the month of December, Bath is also home to one of the U.K.’s best Christmas markets.
The take-away
A lounge in the newly renovated Francis Hotel shows how Bath’s rich heritage features in the hotel’s $26-million update.The Frances Hotel/Supplied
The Francis is an essential part of one of Britain’s historic and most architecturally and culturally appealing cities. John Wood the Elder, who once lived in the hotel, would surely have approved of the latest redesign. And maybe even taken the waters at its new spa.
The Francis Hotel, Queen Square, Bath. Rooms start at £150 ($280), including breakfast. Parking on site for £20 ($37) a night. Guests must purchase treatments to enter the spa.
The writer was a guest of hotel. It did not review or approve this article. Stories are based on merit; The Globe does not guarantee coverage.