This one — inspired by a cutout recipe that my mom keeps in a big binder — stars snap peas and baby new potatoes. It also has steak on top, which is indulgent and delicious, though you can substitute pretty much any protein you like, including vegetarian options like crisped-up chickpeas or fried tofu. Roasted cauliflower florets, which can be made at the exact same time as the potatoes, would also work beautifully.
The point here is less the topping and more that now is the moment to begin taking advantage of ingredients that are finally coming into season as we emerge from the soups, stews, and braises of winter.
Start by preheating the oven to 400 degrees.
Next, bring a medium pot of water to a boil. As it heats, trim and pull the strings off 5 ounces (about one big handful) of snap peas.
Fill a medium bowl with ice water and set it to the side of the now-boiling pot. Add the snap peas to the water for two minutes, until they’re bright green and crisp-tender. Be vigilant; even a minute or two longer and they’ll become unappealingly soft. As soon as the time has passed, use a large slotted spoon or spider to lift the snap peas out and into the ice bath so they stop cooking. Let them sit for a minute to cool completely and then drain the water from the bowl and pat the snap peas dry. Set them aside.
Add a few generous pinches of salt along with 8 ounces of new potatoes to the still-full pot of boiling water. New potatoes are in season, and you’ll likely find them at the farmers market, though you can use any small and tender variety. Baby yellow potatoes, found in practically every grocery store, make a perfect substitute.
Cook the potatoes for five to 10 minutes, depending on the size of the spuds. They don’t need to be completely soft, like you would want if you were making mashed potatoes, but you should be able to pierce through the skin into the center with a fork. As soon as they are done, drain them.
Let the potatoes sit for a few minutes so they’re no longer hot to the touch. While you’re waiting, make the dressing. Whisk together 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil, 2 teaspoons of sherry vinegar, 1 teaspoon of grainy mustard, and ½ of a small shallot, finely diced. Season with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, and set aside.
Now, cut the potatoes into bite-size wedges. Throw them on a quarter-sheet tray, drizzle them generously with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Toss the wedges so they get evenly coated, spread them into one even layer, and place them in the oven for about 10 minutes, until golden-brown. Because you par-boiled the potatoes earlier, the insides will get super tender while the outsides get crispy.
When the potatoes are done, take them out of the oven and set them aside to cool a bit. (It’s fine if they go on the salad warm, but not piping-hot, as that will wilt the lettuce.)
Generously salt and pepper a 6-ounce cut of skirt steak on both sides. This is one of my favorite cuts, especially for salads. It’s well-marbled, which means major flavor and also tenderness — easy to bite through without the help of a steak knife.
Add a drizzle of olive oil to a medium cast-iron skillet and heat it over medium-high. You want to let the oil get thoroughly hot, so the steak sizzles as soon as it hits the pan. Now do just that and cook the meat for three to four minutes per side for medium rare (or a bit longer if you like it darker in the middle). Remove the steak and let it rest for five to 10 minutes so the juices don’t escape when you slice it.
While the steak is resting, weigh out 3 ounces of lettuce. Softer leaves such as arugula and spinach, heartier ones like romaine or little gem, and chicories like radicchio or endive are all fair game.
Add the snap peas and potatoes along with 2 ounces of goat cheese (a creamy, tangy hit that really delivers here), pour the dressing on, and mix it all together. Thinly slice the steak and place that (or your cauliflower or whatever) on top.
With a little luck, you’ll even get to eat it outside.