Wine stores are sure to promote smart buys and great value wines in January. Aware of possible spending excesses from the holidays, they strategically draw our interests to budget-friendly brands and quality-for-price bottles from less-celebrated regions.
I believe that value for wine is a constant mindset rather than a shifting seasonal perspective. Wine lovers are sensitive to prices whenever they shop, especially in this economy. There’s always interest in well-made, reasonably priced bottles, which prompts this latest round-up of affordable bottles with satisfying flavours.
Wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa are featured prominently, a testament to those countries’ knack for producing serious and enjoyable premium wines that are also decent values in Canadian markets. As a result, the latest releases of long-standing favourites, Don David Malbec and La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon, make their annual appearance in this column.
Beyond the everyday price range, there’s a splurge-worthy Australian chardonnay that captured my attention. The poise and elegance of Mountadam High Eden Estate Chardonnay truly impressed. It sells for $29.95 at the LCBO, but drinks like a more expensive bottle.
Bruce Jack Chenin Blanc 2024 (South Africa), $14.95
Rating: 88
South African winemaker Bruce Jack created his namesake label in 2018 to produce premium yet affordable wines from vineyards located across the country’s wine regions. He typically works with grapes from the Breedekloof region to produce this ripe and vibrant 100 per cent chenin blanc. A blend of tank- and barrel-fermented lots, this offers an appealing mix of peach, citrus and vanilla flavours. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in New Brunswick, $17.98 in Nova Scotia.
Don David Reserve Malbec 2023 (Argentina), $17.95
Rating: 87
The 2023 vintage takes this popular malbec from northern Argentina in a different direction. There are more meaty and savoury notes exhibited compared with the pretty floral and dark fruit character commonly associated. Its bold personality is less complex, but fans of robust reds are sure to appreciate. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, Saskatchewan and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $19.35 in Quebec, $21 in New Brunswick, $18.77 in Nova Scotia, $20.99 in Prince Edward Island, $20.64 in Newfoundland.
Escorihuela Gascón 1884 Estate-Grown Malbec 2022 (Argentina), $18.95
Rating: 90
This 100-per-cent malbec comes from vineyards in Agrelo in the Uco Valley, a high-altitude region that’s the source of many of Argentina’s top red wines. Aging in a combination of American and French oak barrels contributes to the complex spicy and toasty character of this juicy and flavourful red. This has 13.7 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Chile), $17.95
Rating: 90
Baron Philippe de Rothschild introduced its Escudo Rojo label in 2001, expanding its winemaking interests in Chile to include a well-made, well-priced collection of red and white wines from the Maipo Valley. The newly released Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon is a ripe yet restrained red wine with layers of dark fruit, mint and cedar flavours. This is fresh and balanced, with admirable structure and concentration for the price. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia (2022 vintage), $27 in New Brunswick.
La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Argentina), $16.95
Rating: 89
La Mascota is a name to know for appealing and affordable cabernet. The current release conveys a classic character with plummy, berry and herbal aromas, as well as cedar and spice from aging in oak barrels. The robust style is balanced and easy to appreciate. This has 14 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $18.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $17.95 in Quebec, $22.49 in New Brunswick, $21.79 in Nova Scotia, $22.49 in Prince Edward Island, $21.69 in Newfoundland.
Le Garenne Chenin Blanc 2024 (France), $18.95
Rating: 88
The pure and refreshing nature of this dry white emphasizes the palate-reviving nature of chenin blanc. It’s not a showstopper, there are no juicy fruit or vanilla notes on display here. But the delicate array of floral, quinine and green apple notes and chalky texture add to the appeal of a vibrant and refreshing wine that’s sure to develop honeyed richness with age. This has 11 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available in Ontario.
Lisbon By Night Red Blend 2022 (Portugal), $10.95
Rating: 86
Vicente Faria is leading production of wine in Portugal, responsible for the Animus, Vicente and Lisbon By Night labels. Made with touriga nacional and other native Portuguese varieties, this wine’s sweet and polished fruity character is easy to appreciate. The concentrated flavour calls to mind the syrupy maraschino cherry core of a Cherry Blossom chocolate. Bitter chocolate notes on the finish keep that confected note in balance and adds to the drinkability. This has 13 per cent ABV and 10 g/litre r.s. Vegan. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Mountadam High Eden Estate Chardonnay 2023 (Australia), $29.95
Rating: 92
High Eden is a recognized wine region in Australia’s Barossa region where riesling, chardonnay and shiraz grapes are cultivated. The cooler, high-altitude conditions result in ripe and refreshing styles that contrast the boldly flavoured wines produced from warmer vineyards on the valley floor. Established in 1972, Mountadam was one of the first to farm grapes in High Eden and this stylish chardonnay proudly shows off the area’s distinctive character. Expect bright and intense lemon and peach flavours in an elegant chardonnay that’s terrific value for the money. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available in Ontario.
