Kayotei in Yamanaka Onsen, Japan.The Ryokan Collection/Supplied
I’m walking through my hotel room at the Kayotei in Yamanaka Onsen, Japan, and I can’t find my bed.
The suite – one of just 10 – is stunning and huge. Four separate rooms are kept apart by sliding doors and a balcony overlooks a lush valley of impossibly green trees. There is a private bath with an assortment of artisanal soaps and toiletries. Guests are given a welcome gift of locally sourced tea and sweets. But the only furniture I’ve stumbled across is a legless chair set up in front of the window. Is there another door I haven’t opened? A murphy bed to pull from the wall? Confused and jet lagged, I text my tour guide
Bemused but accommodating, the guide explains the inn where I’m staying is a ryokan, a traditional-style Japanese hotel. There is a collection of bedding hidden away in one of the closets. While I’m at dinner, the staff will make up the room for the evening. In the meantime, why don’t I don a yukata, a traditional robe worn when walking the halls, and check out the location’s natural hot spring?
The small hot springs village of Yamanaka offers a moment of serenity among large crowds in Japan’s busy cities.Graham Isador/The Globe and Mail
Later that night, I ate a delicious five-course meal of fresh fish and vegetables foraged from the nearby mountains. After an hour in the thermal spa, I retire to my room. On the tatami floor is a series of large pillows and blankets. Crashing down, I listened to the rain outside and had one of the best sleeps of my life.
A trip to Japan is the most affordable it’s been in years, with the Canadian dollar strengthening against the Japanese yen. For anyone planning a trip, ryokan hotels are a highlight to any itinerary. With Japan experiencing a surge in tourism, they offer a moment of serenity amongst large crowds and packed destinations, highlighting a world-class approach to hospitality that is unique to the country.
What is a ryokan hotel?
Ryokan are traditional Japanese hotels characterized by their unique architecture and in-house spas. The locations typically feature tatami floors, sliding doors and bedding directly on the ground. Guests are asked to remove their shoes, walking in socks or in slippers while street clothes are replaced with traditional robes. Spas showcase the area’s natural beauty, with both saunas and baths segregated by gender. Many ask visitors to cover tattoos. Meals – breakfast and dinner – consist of kaiseki ryori, Japanese multicourse haute cuisine. Westernized meals are also offered to guests. All of the facets create a calming environment felt from the moment you walk through the door.
Spas showcase the area’s natural beauty, with saunas and baths separated by gender.Graham Isador/The Globe and Mail
Where can I find a ryokan?
While it’s possible to find a ryokan hotel in larger cities including Tokyo and Osaka, some of Japan’s top establishments exist in smaller areas across the country. That’s because many ryokan inns are built in conjunction with the area’s hot springs, referred to as onsen. Onsen towns such as Kaga in Ishikawa prefecture are a welcome change from the overstimulation of the big cities, while Kanazawa, the prefecture’s capital, offers a more accessible version of the markets, nightlife and shopping Japan is known for.
The country’s high-speed rail makes Ishikawa accessible in about two-and-a-half hours from Tokyo and a little less than two hours to Kyoto, an easy detour if you’re heading from one point of the country to another. Other onsen areas such as Kinosaki are also available via bullet train, while popular spots, including Beppu Onsen with its eight thermal spring zones, take a bit more planning to get to.
An indoor shared hot spring bath is offered as part of the guest experience.Graham Isador/The Globe and Mail
How much does a ryokan hotel cost?
Ryokan prices vary greatly depending on location, establishment and season. The Kayotei in Yamanaka Onsen ran at roughly $800 a night during my stay, while other ryokan inns in the area sat closer to the $200 range. It’s also important to note that many ryokan hotels don’t have English-speaking staff. It may be useful to book through a tour guide or translator, depending on your comfort level.
Is a ryokan hotel worth it?
Ryokan hotels offer a glimpse into Japanese culture. Their tranquil locations are a wellness escape, perfect for relaxing after days of travel and ripe for photo-ops with picturesque backdrops and traditional clothing. While a ryokan might cost more than your typical hotel, it’s also more than your typical hotel experience.
The writer travelled as a guest of Ishikawa prefecture. The tourism board did not review or approve the story before publication.