Illustration by Kat Frick Miller
Kurtis Hayne is a serious foodie. The 39-year-old speaks passionately about citrus zests and finishing oils, fermented Japanese seasonings such as yuzu kosho, and the sushi and ceviche he often prepares for guests at his home in Victoria.
It’s why he has been so successful in his career with the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an international non-profit organization that sets standards for sustainable fishing, and audits fisheries for their practices from coast to coast and globally.
“I love cooking for people, it’s really important to me. It’s an important part of culture here in British Columbia, like harvesting fresh food and seafood,” Hayne says.
In 2024, the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization estimated that more than 37 per cent of 500 global fish stocks were being overfished, which could have negative impacts on fishing communities and the environment.
Hayne oversees multiple initiatives at MSC’s Canadian branch, which make it easier to find wild-caught seafood that is certified sustainable. (Given you know what to look for: a blue “Certified Sustainable Seafood” label with MSC’s checkmark and fish.)
“Ecolabels go beyond just fish,” Hayne says. “I look for credible organizations and ecolabels on products in the meat section and on packaged products, too.”
When grocery shopping for his own kitchen, he acknowledges that living on the coast affords him certain privileges other Canadians, especially inlanders, may not have easy access to: He buys some of his seafood such as albacore tuna and halibut directly from fishers.
Beyond that, Hayne supplements his typical seaside fish runs with trips to Loblaws, Whole Foods and specialty stores in his neighbourhood for certain cheeses and produce that come from local farms – combining sustainable shopping practices with recipe ingredients fit for a foodie.
How Hayne shops for groceries:
Save: I save on staples such as sugar, vinegar and olive oil by buying them on sale. I don’t buy a lot of processed foods, which saves money in the long-run when you look at cost per serving.
Splurge: High-quality sustainable fish. I try to buy it from B.C., from local fisheries. I’m happy to pay the extra dollars for sustainable fish.
The hardest shopping habit: Finding the time to cook from scratch and eat healthy meals is always hard. I meal prep during the week and freeze food so that I avoid ordering or buying food when I’m busy.
How have I changed my habits or diet: Lately, I’m more conscious of my diet’s impact on the environment. I reduced my red meat intake a lot and added more seafood, whole grains and vegetables.
Five items:
- Smoked albacore tuna – Raincoast Trading – $8.99 a can: This cannery is based in Nanaimo, B.C. Canned tuna is a good way to make a quick meal. I use it for a tuna melt sandwich, or toss it on a salad.
- Sushi vinegar – Mizkan – $5.99: This is a great addition to a lot of my dishes. I throw some in soups, stocks, sauces and salad dressings. It’s got a great acidity, but also some sweetness, sour and umami from the MSG.
- Lime – $1 each: My favourite part is the zest for cooking, which pairs really well with seafood. I make yuzu kosho to flavour fish, but I substitute lime zest for yuzu (a Japanese citrus). To that I add hot pepper, salt and ferment it.
- Extra-virgin olive oil – Kirkland Signature Organic – $40.99 for two litres: This is the best bang for my buck when it comes to olive oil. I use this for cooking.
- Sablefish (Black cod) – Whole Foods – $22 a pound: I eat sablefish or some type of fresh fish once or twice a week. It’s the easiest fish to prepare – it’s difficult to overcook and it’s very buttery. I usually serve this when people are coming over.
