How to find the right serum for your skin | Canada Voices

If you’re committed to achieving a firmer, brighter, more hydrated complexion it’s time to get serious about using serum. A lightweight liquid applied between cleansing and moisturizing, a serum can elevate even the simplest routine.

“A serum is a skin-care product generally designed to deliver high concentrations of ingredients,” says Dr. Katie Beleznay, a board-certified dermatologist in Vancouver. With textures varying from watery to gel-like, they’re formulated with a small molecular structure that allows for easy absorption deep within the skin.

“People tend to underestimate how effective a serum can be,” says Stacey Johnson, the Edmonton-based president and CEO of Esthetics Plus and IMAGE Skincare Canada. “It can have a huge impact in treating skin concerns like pigmentation, acne and aging.” Identifying the needs of your complexion and knowing which ingredients are beneficial is key to securing the right serum. “There is not a generic serum that makes sense for everyone,” says Beleznay.

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To restore firmness, a retinol serum claims the top slot. “It is long renowned for its ability over time to improve skin’s texture and tone and achieve the look of smoothed fine lines and wrinkles,” says Johnson. The antioxidant ingredient is a derivative of vitamin A, which encourages cell turnover and helps boost collagen and elastin production, resulting in plumper skin. Best used in a nighttime routine to minimize enhanced sensitivity to sun exposure, the active ingredient can be drying. “Anyone new to using retinol should start slowly and always apply SPF daily,” says Johnson. Both pros also suggest peptides, short chains of amino acids that are essential to building proteins, to jump-start collagen production and contribute to a more youthful appearance.

For those prone to breakouts, look for labels that feature an exfoliating acid. “Effective acne serums usually include ingredients that target clogged pores, inflammation and bacteria,” says Beleznay. “I often recommend salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid but generally trying one at a time to find what works best for you.” While salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid or BHA) breaks down the sticky bonds between dead skin cells and reduces oil, benzoyl peroxide works by killing acne-causing bacteria and azelaic acid can help to reduce the appearance of redness and improve the look of postacne scars, she says.

To tackle dark spots and general dullness, try a vitamin C serum. “It is a powerful antioxidant, making it effective to brighten and even out skin tone,” says Beleznay. Also known as L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C is Johnson’s favourite radiance booster, too, with niacinamide and licorice extract earning special mention. “Typically, a brightening product is formulated to also prevent pigmentation,” she says. “Another popular ingredient right now is tranexamic acid, it treats pigmentation by blocking the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes which helps reduce pigment transfer.”

Cooler weather can also bring forth dehydration in any skin type. For extra comfort, use a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid or glycerin to keep skin soft and supple. “Both ingredients act as humectants to attract water to the skin,” says Beleznay. “I like to apply it to damp skin, then follow immediately with moisturizer to lock in hydration.”

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