As hard as it is to type this out, it’s even more embarrassing to live through. I’ve lived in Vancouver for nearly a decade, and I’m ashamed to say that I didn’t set foot on Vancouver Island until May 2025 — though not for a lack of trying!
My first few years in the city were spent being absorbed by what’s known as the UBC bubble. I moved here when I was freshly 18, so I spent most of my time on campus, occasionally venturing out to Kitsilano, downtown, and Main Street. Anything further than that meant I had to catch a ride, since I didn’t (and still don’t) drive, and Uber and Lyft were non-existent.
As a Vancouver transplant, I was more than happy to occupy myself with day trips to places like Deep Cove, Chilliwack, and Squamish over the years that followed. The great thing about Vancouver, I quickly learned, is that you don’t really have to go anywhere to “escape to nature”; it’s all around you. Even UBC itself is surrounded by lush rainforest and some of the city’s best beaches.
Then came the pandemic. During the lockdown, we were all confined to a different kind of “bubble.” Like many, I was more motivated than ever to get outside and explore the city on foot, roaming all the neighbourhoods and parks I hadn’t explored thoroughly enough. It was then that Vancouver finally opened up to me, as did the possibilities of local travel.
A perk of being unemployed during a global pandemic? So much time to plan. Or in my case, list out all the places I wanted to explore in B.C. Truly, my notes app was the fullest it had ever been, littered with the names of abandoned ghost towns, provincial parks, and hidden gems among grocery lists.
First time on Vancouver Island
It wasn’t until this spring that I finally booked that ferry ticket. After several trips to the U.S. and abroad to visit loved ones, I finally felt like the opportunity for a Vancouver Island staycation had arrived.
Here’s how I spent my three days on the Island.
A turn-of-the-century town
One of the small towns I’ve had on my list since its inception is Ladysmith. Known for having a “Mediterranean-like climate” year-round, the charming seaside community was our first stop on the Island after taking the ferry to Nanaimo. Since we were ultimately headed in the opposite direction, I thought early Friday would be the perfect time to venture outside of our itinerary for a couple of hours. And by early, I mean taking the 6 a.m. ferry from Horseshoe Bay, early.
Our first stop? Local fixture Salamander Books, which unfortunately shuttered just two weeks after our visit. The rare book store didn’t disappoint, having been in operation for nearly 20 years. If you managed to snag a couple of reads here over the years, consider yourselves lucky!
Next, we grabbed some of Old Town Bakery’s famous cinnamon buns, perused the historic downtown, and visited the multi-level Antiques Post Office Mall before heading to the beach, passing by a whole community of wild rabbits and historic logging machinery on the way.
We settled at Transfer Beach Park, soaking up the sun, devouring our treats, and catching our breath after what was an eventful morning.
Goats, trees, and hail
Next, it was time to head to Nanoose Bay’s Fairwinds Residences (formerly the Schooner Cove Hotel), where we would spend Friday and Saturday night. If you’re looking for an excellent short-term vacation rental on the North Island that’s homey, cozy, and has easy access to the rest of Vancouver Island, the new rentals here check every box, overlooking the newly completed marina in Schooner Cove.
In between our decadent meals at Nanoose Bay Cafe and sitting by the outdoor fire pit, we decided to hit up a couple of nearby attractions, namely the Coombs Old Country Market and the majestic Cathedral Grove at MacMillan Provincial Park.
While the famed rooftop goats are typically a fixture at the market from May to October every year, they weren’t quite ready to graze the grass-clad roofs of the market during our visit. To be fair, it began hailing less than an hour after we stopped at the market, so it was for the best.
As for us, the 800-year-old trees at the ancient Cathedral Grove made for a great refuge from the hailstorm. After arriving at MacMillan Provincial Park to meet some of nature’s giants, we were pummelled by hail that surprised us in its strength and size, though it didn’t take away from this magical forest stroll.
Craft breweries galore
Our thirst for outdoor adventure was definitely quenched on this trip, as was my craving for craft beer. Since acquiring a taste for sours during my university years, I’ve been on a fast track to trying every fruity brew I can get my hands on. And the North Island did not disappoint.
Our weekend-long crawl began at Bayview Brewing Company in Ladysmith, a cozy, unassuming spot with some great poke bowls and bao buns in the mix, and a front patio to enjoy them on. Here, we had their Famous Ladysmith Blonde, Orange Cayenne Lager, Blackberry Lemonade Sour, and a Semi-Dry Saltspring Wild Cider.
Once we arrived at Nanoose Bay, we felt it was only right to pay a visit to Rusted Rake, which is equal parts farm and brewery. A dinner of delicious brisket, fish burgers, and beer flights followed, satisfying our every craving. The beers here are brewed directly from barley grown on the farm, ranging from a light, dry Mexican lager to dry-hopped tropical sours.
On Saturday, we fled the scene of the hailstorm in search of yet another local watering hole. Our first stop of the day was Fern + Cedar Brewing in Qualicum Beach, where we enjoyed another flight of local brews under a stunning sea of ferns hanging from the ceiling.
We managed to pop over to Mount Arrowsmith Brewing for a quick pit stop before dinner, and will certainly be back to enjoy its southern-style BBQ and intimate space. Another spot I’d add to my list for next time is Love Shack Libations, which has produced multiple award-winning B.C. brews.
Gabriola Island
Since we booked the last ferry of the day back to the mainland, we had all of Sunday to continue our explorations. So I thought, what better way to end the trip than with a half-day at Gabriola Island? The ferry was quick, and the views were absolutely stunning, so if you’re ever on the fence or in a similar quandary, I say go for it.
I had seen numerous pictures of the unique sandstone formations at Malaspina Galleries, but there was truly nothing that could have prepared me for their mystique in person. How nature did that all on its own is a mystery!
Our visit was complete with some refreshing cider from Ravenskill Orchards, which has a beautiful patio overlooking the growing apples, and a picnic at Gabriola Sands Park.
A word to the wise: always have a cheese knife handy, or you’ll end up having to get creative on your next outdoor feast.
All in all, we managed to pack in a lot into those three days. First time on the Island or not, I tried to lean into all things local, from the sights to the parks to the food and drink. Of course, I had to cross a few touristy things off my checklist, but if you’re in a similar boat in terms of exploring somewhere new, I’d say it’s all about balance.
They say the best things in life are worth waiting for, and I definitely proved that with this trip. But I also learned that it’s never too late to slow down and savour new experiences right in your own backyard. Now that I’ve experienced a slice of that Vancouver Island life, I know it’s only a matter of time before I’m back.
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