In Vinho Verde, a winemaker looks to the future with an open mind | Canada Voices

Anselmo Mendes, the Portuguese winemaker known as Mr. Alvarinho, has a close relationship with the white wine grape, but not an exclusive one. It has proven itself to be the best variety for his native Monçao and Melgaço region, where his Quinta de Torre property has the largest single planting of alvarinho in Portugal (50 hectares), producing a variety of styles from fresh and fruity to oak aged and complex. He also has introduced distinctive sparkling and so-called orange (skin-contact) wines.

However, this hasn’t stopped Mendes from experimenting with different red and white wine varieties, including cainho branco, fiano and riesling as well as nebbiolo and pinot noir, in search of star potential. In a region where the grape harvest begins in the last week of August rather than on Sept. 20 as it did five years ago, there is no guarantee alvarinho will still be the best suited grape for this warm and dry region in 20 years’ time.

“He’s open minded. He is always experimenting with things,” says Pedro Ramires, marketing manager for Anselmo Mendes Wines.

The styles of wine produce from Vinho Verde has changed over the years. Recently, blends of local grape varieties, such as arinto, avesso and loureiro, have been released as light, fruity and often fizzy wines. More premium white wine selections have been introduced as single variety wines made with alvarinho from Monçao and Melgaço or loureiro from Lima.

Since 2012, Mendes has been helping to revive the nearly extinct local alvarelhão variety to produce brightly coloured, low-alcohol, elegant red wines called Pardusco. This name is a nod to the red wines that regional producers used to export to England in the 14^th century.

Ramires says that Pardusco, which is a blend of alvarelhão, pedral and cainho grape varieties that sells for under $20 per bottle, has found a strong audience in Canada. “These are grape varieties that no one has heard about even in Portugal, but the style has caught on, especially in Quebec,” he explains.

SAQ outlets is about to release the 2024 vintage ($17.45 per bottle), while Pardusco 2023 is currently available at LCBO Vintages outlets for $18.95.

The wine’s vibrant mix of juicy red fruit and herbal flavours is best served slightly chilled. It’s an exciting style, but a lack of plantings in the region means that Mendes is unlikely to become known as Mr. Alvarelhão. Due to a shortage of grapes, he struggles to produce more than 50,000 bottles of Pardusco each vintage. Growers in Monçao and Melgaço earn more money selling alvarinho grapes, so there is little incentive to plant the fledgling red variety.