Maritozzi is a cream-filled brioche bun and stewed rhubarb gives it a seasonal kick.Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Rome is famous for a lot of beautiful and delicious things, not least of all cream-filled brioche buns that are becoming more sought-after by a population accustomed to eating with our eyes.
The soft, slightly sweet, citrus-spiked buns are enriched with eggs and olive oil, and once baked, sliced open straight down the middle – though if you go on a slight angle, you’ll have more surface area for stuffing – and filled with a thick wedge of whipped cream, which is then swiped flush with the bun. It’s incredibly appealing to see whipped cream with a smooth surface, rather than the usual piped ruffle or dollop on top of dessert.
Maritozzi make a perfect vehicle for stewed rhubarb, particularly in the spring, or keep them classic with just cream, or add a smear of jam or Nutella inside the cut brioche before you fill them. Cook as much rhubarb as you like – any extra is delicious with yogurt and granola, or over toast or cake.
The recipe may seem involved, but these can be made over the course of a leisurely morning, and require more time than effort. Italian is often referred to as the love language, and feeding someone (including yourself) a homemade maritozzo certainly is.
Recipe: Maritozzi with Stewed Rhubarb
These soft brioche buns are kick-started with a simple lievitino – a sponge or levain that gives the bread a more complex flavour and texture, and increases its shelf life. Honey is commonly used in maritozzi – using it to sweeten the cream allows its flavour to come through.
Stewed rhubarb:
Chopped fresh or frozen rhubarb (at least a cup)
Sugar (about a quarter as much sugar as rhubarb)
Water or orange juice
Sponge:
1/2 cup milk, warmed
2 tsp instant or active dry yeast
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup olive, canola or other vegetable oil
2 large eggs
Finely grated zest of an orange
Finely grated zest of a lemon
Glaze:
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
Filling:
2 cups whipping cream
2 tbsp granulated or icing sugar, or 1 tbsp honey
1/2 tsp vanilla
Stewed rhubarb
Icing sugar, for dusting
Start with the stewed rhubarb: Combine the rhubarb with a spoonful or two of sugar per cup of rhubarb and a splash of water or squeeze of orange juice and cook, adding a bit more water if it seems dry, until the rhubarb softens and breaks down. Taste and add more sugar if it’s too tart. Cool and refrigerate for up to a week (the more sugar it contains, the longer it will keep) or freeze.
Next, make the sponge: Put the warm milk in a medium bowl and sprinkle over the yeast. Let it sit for a minute or two, then stir to dissolve. Stir in the flour, cover and let sit for about an hour.
To make the dough: In the bowl of your stand mixer (if you have a dough hook) or a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the oil, eggs, orange and lemon zest and the sponge. Use the dough hook to stir it together, and let it continue to knead until the dough is smooth, sticky and elastic. Alternatively, stir the dough together, then turn out onto the countertop and knead until smooth. (The dough should be quite sticky, but will become less sticky as you go. Shake over a small amount of flour if it’s too sticky to work with, or let it sit for a bit to allow the flour in the dough to absorb some of the moisture.)
Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a tea towel, plate or plastic wrap and let sit for 1 1/2 to two hours, or until doubled (or so) in size.
Divide the dough into eight pieces and shape each into a tight bun. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover loosely with a tea towel or plastic wrap and let sit for another hour, until about doubled in size. About halfway through, preheat your oven to 375 F.
Bake your brioche for 15-20 minutes, until deep golden and hollow-sounding when you tap on the bottom.
Meanwhile, make the glaze: Bring the sugar and water (or use the juice from your orange) to a simmer in a small saucepan, stirring until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is clear. Brush over the buns while they’re still warm.
While you wait for the buns to cool, whip your cream with sugar or honey and vanilla until stiff peaks form. When the brioche are completely cool, cut them open (without cutting all the way through) either straight down the middle or on a slight angle – this will allow for more cream.
Either spread some rhubarb inside, or swirl a few spoonfuls into the cream. Pipe or spoon the cream into each bun, filling it thickly, and run the flat edge of a knife (or palette knife) along the outside to smooth it flush with the edge of the bun. Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve immediately, or within a few hours.
Makes eight maritozzi.
