Inside Marcus Samuelsson’s Bright, Berbere-Blasted D.C. Debut

NY-based celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson finally gets to do a D.C. restaurant on his terms. Marcus DC, his first in the nation’s capital, opened Tuesday, June 3, in NoMa’s Morrow Hotel (222 M Street NE). The acclaimed restaurateur behind Harlem’s hot Red Rooster oversaw every last detail at the 200-room hotel’s anchor dining attraction, from the Ethiopian and Swedish influences on the menus, the colorful textured mural by Brooklyn-based artist Derrick Adams above the stunning bar, down to the waiters’ custom patchwork aprons. The result: a fun and lively atmosphere that prepares diners to sample Samuelsson’s one-of-a-kind dishes.

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

“This is the first restaurant that we are doing on our terms,” Samuelsson tells Eater. “We just wanted to connect, to keep the guests curious and to make them feel like ‘Wow, this is an experience that I want to come back to.’”

With the bounty of the Chesapeake Bay supplying local oysters, rockfish, and, of course, blue crabs, Samuelsson knew his seafood-centric restaurant had to have a local chef who knows its waterways well. He immediately reached out to his longtime collaborator chef Anthony Jones, a Maryland native that worked at Miami’s Red Rooster Overtown in 2020 and most recently led the kitchen at Dirty Habit, who adds his own twists to Marcus DC’s dishes.

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

Jones infused the menu with the flavors of D.C., from the mambo sauce on the Chuck B’s roast chicken (named after one of the original founders of Go-Go) to the addictive Mel’s crab rice, Jones’s homage to his summers growing up in Calvert County picking up fresh crabs with his family from Mel’s crab truck.

“Every summer we would stop by and get a few bushels of crabs from Mel’s Truck that we would drive past in Huntington, Maryland,” says Jones. “We would all dig in, crack open a few beers, have some sides, and music would be playing. And that was just like a fun summer time experience for me and now I’ve taken that and mixed it with rice.”

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

The 153-seat newcomer with a 12-seat bar was already packed on the first night of service. Samuelsson says he has many opening favorites, notably that crab rice, but recommends starting with his signature blue cornbread served with yassa butter and berbere honey; followed by his Swediopian, a cured salmon served with a goldenberry broth, fennel mustard, and teff crisp; and fluke crudo served in an apple cucumber aguachile with a crispy plantain. After that the options are endless, diners can chow down on mains like the roasted rockfish served with an octopus-based chili (a homage to Ben’s Chili Bowl), the Chuck B’s Roast Chicken, and, of course, that signature Mel’s Crab Rice with pickled okra and uni bernaise.

Try to save room for dessert. Executive pastry chef Rachel Sherriff, formerly of Rooster & Owl, has created a selection inspired by her Jamaican heritage that will not be found anywhere else. The Thai basil rice pudding accompanied with lime cake, ginger lime jelly, and yogurt sorbet is habit-forming. Her praline coconut cake is showcased with a table-side retro trolley where the final dish is theatrically built in front of guests.

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

“Once you go through the meal, then you come to Rachel, there’s another level of discovery,” Samuelsson remarks. “So that is for me, what I’m extremely excited about… it’s the biggest privilege when you can work with young people that are committed to our craft.”

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC

The cocktails menu here was crafted by master mixologist Glendon Hartley, of award-winning Causa/Amazonia and Service Bar, to specifically compliment the food. Options such as a spicy Abyssinian Blaze made with gin, Campari, and the Ethiopian spice berbere or the light Velvet Detour made with tamarind, cognac, and lemon juice do not disappoint.

While Samuelsson honed his techniques working in Italy, France, Japan, and Sweden, he said many of the foods and decor at his newest restaurant are inspired by the continent of Africa. He hopes the restaurant will serve as a lively cultural destination that “showcases the richness and diversity of the Black culinary experience” in a modern setting.

“I want the guests to feel a sense of joy and warmth in the place once they enter and as they dine and discover chef Anthony’s food, how delicious and extremely thoughtful it is. But it’s also craveable, made with great techniques,” he says.

Samuelsson said he always felt a close connection to D.C.’s vibrant Ethiopian community and the “mom-and-pop” shops that line neighborhoods like Adams Morgan. He started exploring the city in the mid-90s, making frequent weekends trips from New York and, as his notoriety grew, returned to cook for high-stakes dinner and eventually for the Obamas at the White House.

He was drawn to the Union Market area because it feels vibrant and layered, plus he says other chefs at the surrounding restaurants have been “super welcoming.” He also enjoys just strolling through the buzzing neighborhood and checking out vintage stores whenever he gets a chance. After a Marcus DC meal, a nightcap or at least a quick peek of the view at his rooftop bar Sly is a great way to end the evening.

Samuelsson has a few words of advice for aspiring chefs: Try your hand at every position in the kitchen and front of house, “learn about new cultures and food languages”, and take advantage of social media, but it all comes down to having a “love for the craft.”

“The chefs that truly love the craft will be successful, because it’s not only an external affirmation, it’s an internal affirmation,” he says. “I was cooking when no one was watching, and I loved it. And it just makes me happy.”

Scott Suchman/Marcus DC