Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Grilling season often brings to mind classic summer proteins like burgers, steaks and smokies, but veggies of all kinds do exceptionally well over intense, direct heat – and cooking them is far more forgiving.
Vegetables that are more fragile and contain more water, such as peppers, zucchini, onions, mushrooms, eggplant and asparagus, which is a little sturdier, can be brushed with oil and quickly grilled whole or in pieces large enough that they won’t fall through the grates. Denser veggies such as carrots, beets, potatoes and cauliflower benefit from being parboiled – cooked in simmering water until they are just starting to become tender – before finishing on the grill.
Serve grilled veg along with grilled flatbread and dip. Grilled eggplant, peppers, onions and zucchini make a delicious base for dips and spreads like hummus, baba ganoush or muhammara.
Beyond the barbecue, a backyard fire provides sufficient heat for cooking once the coals are well established, and there’s the opportunity to take advantage of residual heat as they die down by wrapping whole veggies in a double layer of foil and tucking them into the smouldering coals overnight. The next morning you’ll have wonderfully soft, smoky, slow-roasted eggplant to layer in sandwiches or use in your baba ganoush or ratatouille. Use the same method to caramelize whole onions to top burgers or sandwiches or add a smoky element to the base of a soup or stew.
The residual heat of a dying fire is also a great way to precook large winter squash without heating up your kitchen. Poke them a few times with a knife before wrapping and nestling into the coals, turn once or twice if you think of it, and you’ll have precooked squash that’s easier to peel and cut into chunks. It can be refrigerated and added to salads and grain bowls. If it’s not evenly cooked it can go into soups and curries to finish cooking.
Grilled carrots with smoky baba ganoush
Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
If you want to get a head start on the baba ganoush, its flavour improves after a day or two in the fridge. This creamy dip makes a delicious accompaniment to virtually any grilled veggie – try asparagus, cabbage, cauliflower or wedges of sweet potato or winter squash.
Baba ganoush:
- 1 large or 2 smaller eggplants
- 1/4-1/3 cup tahini
- juice of 1 lemon
- 2-3 garlic cloves, finely crushed
- salt, to taste
- 1/4 cup olive oil, or to taste
- 1 bundle carrots, with tops
Tahini yogurt:
- 1/4 cup tahini
- 1/4 cup yogurt
- a squeeze of lemon (there may be a bit left in the one you used in the baba ganoush)
- 1 small garlic clove, finely crushed
- salt, to taste
- chili crisp, for serving (optional)
Wash the eggplant and poke it several times with a sharp knife or bamboo skewer. On a preheated grill, cook the whole eggplant for 20-30 minutes, turning as it develops grill marks on each side, until very soft and charred. Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, trim the tops off the carrots, saving the leafy greens, and cut any that are larger than your finger in half lengthwise. In a saucepan or skillet that will accommodate them, cook in simmering salted water for 5-7 minutes, or until just barely tender. (This can be done up to a few days ahead; store in the fridge until you’re ready to finish them on the grill.) Drain, drizzle with oil and toss to coat. Transfer to the grill to cook alongside the eggplant for about 10 minutes, or until charred and tender.
When the eggplant is cool enough to handle, peel it and put the flesh in a bowl with the tahini, yogurt, lemon juice, garlic and salt. (Discard the skin.) Roughly mash with a fork, whisk or avocado masher, drizzling in 1/4 cup or so of oil, until it has a creamy consistency. Taste and adjust the salt, lemon and garlic, if needed.
To make the tahini yogurt, stir together the tahini, yogurt, lemon, garlic and a big pinch of salt. To serve, spread the baba ganoush on a serving dish, top with the carrots and a generous drizzle of tahini yogurt and, if you like, some chili crisp. Chop or snip over some carrot fronds with scissors. Serves about four.