“Honestly for me, at 11 months in, it’s one — it’s a great, big validation of what we’ve been doing at 4662 N. Broadway,” Fenton says. “I feel really honored to bring a coveted star back to that address in Chicago and to that neighborhood, specifically a neighborhood that’s definitely off the beaten path.”
Fenton and his crew received the news on Monday night during Michelin’s award ceremony in New York. Cariño’s ascension was the main Chicago storyline. The number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago decreased in 2024, going from 21 in the previous year to 20. Cariño was the only addition as two restaurants that appeared on the 2023 list, Temporis and Porto, have closed.
The only other movement came from Moody Tongue, often cited as the only Michelin-starred brewpub in the world. The brewery, located near McCormick Place, has been a two-starred restaurant since 2021. This year, inspectors dropped the restaurant to a single star. They did the same with Omakase Yume in West Loop.
There was clamor that Oriole, chef Noah Sandoval’s tasting menu restaurant in the West Loop, was on the cusp of three stars, following the template set last year with Smyth leaped from two to three. Smyth kept its three-star rating and Oriole kept its two stars. Smyth joins chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea as the only three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago.
The stars are the highlight of the Michelin Guide, an honor chefs dream of, even though there’s no such thing as a “Michelin-starred chef.” It’s a team honor for the entire staff at the restaurant. Stars often recognize fine dining restaurants and Michelin dedicates another list, its Bib Gourmands, to more affordable restaurants offering quality cooking.
Chicago’s Bib Gourmands saw 11 fewer restaurants with places like One Off Hospitality Group’s Avec, the new Etta, and Stephanie Izard’s Cabra falling off the list. There are 37 Chicago Bib Gourmands in 2024 compared to 48 last year. The only new selection was Sifr, the Middle Eastern restaurant in River North from the owners of Chicago’s only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant, Indienne.
“Overall, I just feel relieved and very happy for the team and how hard they worked and what efforts they put into it — and the dedication and just coming in, day in and day out on the daily grind,” Fenton says. “They understand that it’s hard work, but push through to see through our goals.”
The honor is one of redemption for Fenton who was the chef at Cariño’s predecessor, Brass Heart. Fenton didn’t open the restaurant and found himself cooking at the restaurant in the middle of the pandemic with fewer eyes on fine dining restaurants. Brass Heart would close and give Fenton an opportunity. He convinced his business partner, Karen Young (Young employed Fenton at a restaurant in Mexico called Wild Tulum) to take a chance on him in Chicago. The result was Cariño. Before Brass Heart, the space was home to Michelin-starred 42 Grams.
Fenton says he’s hopeful the award will provide further proof of concept, so they can become a “recogonizable force.” While Fenton says the award should continue to provide them the “fuel and motivation to continue pushing,” he laughed when asked what was next for him and his staff.
“We gotta go to work on Wednesday,” he says.
Chicagoans factored in four other awards. For the second straight year, Daisies in Logan Square won a Green Star for its continued efforts toward sustainability. They were the only Chicago restaurant that earned the award. Inspectors also awarded Scott Stroemer of Galit with the Michelin Sommelier Award while Tim Flores and Genie Kwon of Kasama with the Outstanding Service Award. Michelin also awarded one of three 2024 Young Chef Awards to Josh Mummert of Kumiko. He joined the Japanese-inspired cocktail bar three years ago and was formerly at Elske.
Check out the lists of Chicago’s Michelin winners below.
*Denotes new for 2024
Three Stars
Alinea
Smyth
Two Stars
Ever
Oriole
One Star
Atelier
Boka
*Cariño
EL Ideas
Elske
Esme
Galit
Indienne
Kasama
Mako
Next
Moody Tongue
Schwa
Sepia
Topolobampo
*Denotes new for 2024
Birrieria Zaragoza
Boonie’s
Cellar Door
Chef’s Special Cocktail bar
Chilam Balam
Ciccio Mio
Daisies
Dear Margaret
The Duck Inn
Frontera
Ghin Khao
Giant
Gilt Bar
Girl & The Goat
HaiSous
Kie-Gol-Lanee
Lardon
Longman & Eagle
Lula Cafe
Mama Delia
mfk
Mi Tocaya
Mott St
Munno Pizzeria
Nella
Perilla
Pleasant House Pub
Pompette
Proxi
Purple Pig
*Sifr
Sochi
Sol de Mexico
Superkhana International
Table, Donkey and Stick
Tortello
Union
Virtue
Yao Yao