Illustration by The Globe and Mail. Source: Storm Santos
By the time he turned 30 in November, 2019, Kwame Onwuachi had already opened five restaurants.
Five years since, the James Beard Award winner has added Tatiana, twice voted the No. 1 Restaurant in New York by The New York Times, and Dōgon, which draws inspiration from the Mali-based African tribe of the same name. This year alone, he appeared in Netflix’s Chef’s Table and was recognized by Time magazine as one of the 100 most influential people on the planet.
But for Onwuachi, success isn’t measured by awards and accolades but by how he can use his platform to create opportunities for others. Raised in New York, Nigeria and Louisiana, Onwuachi doesn’t just cook – he’s building a community, and having fun doing it.
“If I’m not having fun, it doesn’t matter how much money is there – it’s not successful for me,” he says in an interview with The Globe.
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Living up to his mantra that “Every day is day one,” Onwuachi is embarking on new projects including a playful, fast-casual Jamaican patty chain aptly named Patty Palace, as well as Maroon, a first-of-its-kind Afro-Caribbean steakhouse on the Las Vegas Strip (opening later this year). “Steakhouses are synonymous with Las Vegas,” explains Onwuachi. ”A steakhouse with more flavour is like a no-brainer to me.”
Onwuachi shares what’s on his plate and how he finds time for joy in the chaos of New York.
What would an ideal day off look like at home in New York?
I’d start with the round of golf in New Jersey; come back home and watch a show – I’m into war stuff, so World War II documentaries. Get some Chinese takeout for lunch, like chicken wings and pork fried rice. Stop by Tatiana: Even if it’s a day off, I like to see what’s up. And just hang out with some friends; it could be at a restaurant or just cooking at home. I’m a homebody, probably because I travel so much for work.
Tell me about your love of golf.
I’ve been golfing for a year and a half. Golf is like meditation. I’m focused on one thing: just trying to hit a ball. I’m in nature, I’m walking and with friends, so it’s very therapeutic for me. It’s also a time when I can go out for four hours without being on my phone. I’m able to focus on something that’s purely for me.
What’s a trusty pantry item that you always have stocked?
I would say house spice: it’s my mother’s blend. It’s like a Creole spice blend with cayenne, garlic, onion, paprika, black pepper and Worcestershire powder. We always had it around the house, literally putting it in everything. It’s a really good all-purpose seasoning.
What do you often whip up for yourself?
Microwave popcorn. It comes with its own dish, so I don’t have to do dishes – it’s great. I don’t really cook for myself. I enjoy cooking for other people.
If you were hosting a gathering at your place this summer, what would be on the menu?
There’d be ribs, peel-and-eat shrimp, boiled crawfish, definitely a pot of gumbo, some rice situation, burgers, hot dogs – a little bit of everything. Probably some oxtails, maybe jerk chicken.
Is there a playlist or genre of music you turn to, to help jump-start your creativity?
I create my own playlists on Spotify under Chef Kwame, so each restaurant has its own playlist. I definitely lean towards more hip-hop and R&B from the 1990s and 2000s: Lauryn Hill, Erykah Badu, Jay-Z, Frank Ocean, Cleo Sol, Snoh Aalegra. The list goes on; even Steely Dan is one of my favourite artists.
Do you listen to music while prepping in the kitchen, or do you prefer silence?
I like music in the kitchen, for sure. It translates to the food. All of my restaurants have semi-open or open kitchens, so you hear the music while you’re cooking. Just hearing pans, searing and knives chopping all the time can get monotonous. A good song can change a lot for you. It can uplift your mood, and that’s not just when you’re cooking; that’s day-to-day. Music makes it more exciting. You’re not just cooking the same dish over and over again; you’re actually a part of the atmosphere.
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You’re also a big supporter of Black artists and fashion designers. Which designers do you love?
Ugo Mozie is a friend of mine and just came out with the fashion line; I like House of Gray – those are two that I really like and that have supported me throughout the years. Coco and Breezy, as well. All of my glasses and sunglasses come from them, and we’ve known each other since we were younger, so it’s great to see their business flourish over the years.
Watching you constantly evolve as a chef and restaurateur is exciting. Why is that so important?
I’m trying to challenge myself and do different and new things. It would be easy to repeat a successful restaurant, but I think I was brought here to tell more cultural stories. Being Black is not a monolith, so for me, it’s impossible to be pigeonholed because there are so many tentacles that came out of the diaspora around the world, and there are so many stories to tell.
This interview has been edited and condensed.
