Entertaining as the season changes calls for more complex, richer wines.Milos Stankovic/iStockPhoto / Getty Images
Not enough is said about the texture of wine. The comforting and sustaining sensation of a well-made pinot noir or the crisp and creamy nature of chardonnay from Chablis is as important to our enjoyment as its taste and smell.
To my mind, texture becomes even more integral to wine appreciation as the days and nights become cooler. The thirst-quenching wines that helped beat the summer’s heat don’t satiate the same way in October. The changing season calls for multidimensional wines with richer, rounder or more-oomph texture that contributes depth, complexity and personality to our glass.
Give thanks with Canadian wine, starting with these eight worthwhile bottlesSubscriber content
The nine wines recommended this week display a range of styles, with varying aromas, flavours and textures to experience and savour. As added bonus for hosts or party-goers, they are prime bottles to bring to the dinner table.
Hester Creek Old-Vine Cabernet Franc 2022 (Canada), $38.95
Rating: 91
A new release at LCBO Vintages outlets, this robust and structured red is made with cabernet franc grapes from vines planted in 1968 on the Golden Mile Bench near Oliver, B.C. Expect plummy and berry flavours with earthy and oak-derived spice flavours that are sure to mature gracefully. This has 14.3 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.99 direct, hestercreek.com.
Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Cap Classique Brut Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2022 (South Africa), $29.95
Rating: 92
Sparklehorse is a traditional-method sparkling wine from South African chenin blanc specialist Ken Forrester. The playful name refers to transforming the workhorse chenin grape into a showstopping festive wine. Made in a dry and satisfying style, this offers honeyed and fruity flavours balanced by citrussy acidity and gentle bubbles that freshen the palate. This crowd-pleasing bubbly is great value for the price. This has 12 per cent ABV and 6 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Kim Crawford Illuminate 0% Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (New Zealand), $27
Rating: 86
Bestselling Marlborough brand Kim Crawford has launched a dealcoholized sauvignon blanc alongside its conventional label and the low-alcohol, low calorie Illuminate (7 per cent ABV) offering. The intense aroma and flavour of Marlborough sauvignon blanc shines through here, with grapefruit, lemon and green apple flavours featured as part of a crisp and refreshing style. This has 0.5 per cent ABV and 6 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in New Brunswick, various prices in Alberta.
Palacios Remondo La Montesa 2021 (Spain), $26.95
Rating: 92
Founded in 1945 in the village of Alfaro, Palacios Remondo has gained international acclaim for the talents of winemaker Alvaro Palacios. La Montesa is a single-vineyard grenache-based red wine that offers remarkable flavour and finesse. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel to preserve freshness and fruity character before aging in a mix of older and new French and American oak barrels for one year. The finished wine is fragrant and focused, with concentrated tart red fruit and citrus flavours that develop in the glass. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $44.99 in British Columbia (Marquis Wine Cellars), $26.50 in Quebec.
Pascal Bouchard Blancs Cailloux Petit Chablis 2023 (France), $29.95
Rating: 90
The Petit Chablis appellation, which covers portions of the hillsides on both sides of the Serein valley outside of the main Chablis vineyard sites, was responsible for roughly 20 per cent of the 2023 harvest. These white wines are made exclusively from the chardonnay grape, which, in this instance, results in an expressive and intense wine marked by lemon and apple flavours with toast and earthy notes. Made without any oak influence, this displays the chalky character that the region is famous for. It’s a terrific white to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Available at the above price in Ontario, $33.99 in British Columbia, $28.30 in Quebec.
Pazo das Bruxas Albarino 2024 (Spain), $22.95
Rating: 90
From a property owned by the Torres family in Rias Baixas, this is an attractive expression of the region’s signature albarino grape. Expect a mix of peach, green apple and citrus fruit with floral and fresh herbal notes. The focused and crisp character make this an ideal dining companion. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Rocca delle Macìe Riserva Chianti 2022 (Italy), $16.95
Rating: 88
Operated by the Zingarelli family, Rocca delle Macìe produces a consistently enjoyable range of wines in Tuscany. The Riserva Chianti incorporates small additions of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the sangiovese-based blend, yielding a medium-bodied red wine with an appealing core of dark cherry flavours and spice notes. The classic character makes this a solid red for the dinner table. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $17.40 in Quebec.
Urbina Especial Reserva 2006 (Spain), $44.95
Rating: 92
Urbina is a fourth-generation family operation based in Cuzcurrita, a village in La Rioja, Spain. The 2006 vintage is the current release of the Especial Reserva label, which is a complex and concentrated red wine that shows upfront aged notes suggesting cedar, balsamic and tobacco notes. Bright acidity and berry/cherry fruit contribute to a classic aged Rioja profile that’s harmonious and satisfying. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
William Fevre Petit Chablis 2023 (France), $32
Rating: 90
A popular name for quality wines from Chablis, William Fevre was purchased in 2023 by Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), owners of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Duhart-Milon and other prestigious Bordeaux estates. The Petit Chablis 2023 is a benchmark style of pure chardonnay, offering good grip and tension with focused citrussy character and a refreshing finish. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $39.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta.
