Potato chips can channel the flavour of almost anything – even a Michelin-level pasta dish | Canada Voices

The first bite hits with the sharp tang of cheese, possibly parmesan. The next, freshly ground pepper with smoky undertones. Starchy, salty and rich, the combination brings to mind a sophisticated mac and cheese.

But this wasn’t pasta. It was a potato chip – Miss Vickie’s new take on the Italian classic cacio e pepe, inspired by Vancouver’s Michelin-recommended Ask for Luigi. And it’s just one of three flavours in the brand’s new Ristoranti series, including Vodka Sauce Pizza, courtesy of Toronto’s cult-favourite Pizzeria Badiali, and Spicy Pepperoncini & Focaccia, a nod to Montreal’s popular neighbourhood eatery Nora Gray.

If you are a potato chip purist, the idea of pasta and pizza in a potato chip may sound bizarre. But these flavours are just the latest in a long-running trend of pushing chips into adventurous, exotic and sometimes eyebrow-raising territory. For decades, chip makers have been trying to reinvent the humble spud, dressing it up in all manner of global inspiration.

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This year, Canadians were treated to Lay’s Cheesy Garlic Bread, Miss Vickie’s Mediterranean Herb Tzatziki, Lay’s Chalet Sauce (an homage to Swiss Chalet’s signature dipping sauce), Ruffles Spicy Garlic as well as a new Poutine flavour. Some may have struck a chord, others were more polarizing. But that, say chip makers, is exactly the point: to keep surprising people who are game to try almost anything.

The new restaurant-inspired line from Miss Vickie’s is the latest attempt to capture that spirit. “Consumers are now global eaters, and they are looking for sophisticated and elevated flavours,” says Kelsie Milbury, director of research and development at PepsiCo Canada, which owns Miss Vickie’s, Lay’s and Ruffles. The restaurant line aims to bottle up the “essence” of a dish: a wood-fired pizza fresh from the oven, a hunk of sourdough focaccia dipped in olive oil, or a silky, peppery pasta.

“We collaborated with these iconic Canadian restaurants to bring complex profiles to potato chips. And the reason we chose Italian is because it’s one of the most popular cuisines in Canada.”

Foodies increasingly want cuisine that is bold, global and Instagram-able. Chip lovers, too. The formula is simple: Start with foods that resonate with certain cultures and demographics, then layer in unexpected twists. Chips can channel the flavour of a faraway city, a street cart snack or even a Michelin-level plate of pasta.

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The balance between nostalgia and novelty keeps people coming back, says Milbury, who adds “the magic of the potato chip is that it can be both comforting and adventurous.”

A bag of plain, lightly salted chips might out-sell new flavours such as kimchi, truffle, wasabi, roast chicken, or fries and gravy, but the thrill of discovery keeps snackers curious – and coming back for more.

That curiosity is big business. In 2024, the global potato chip market was valued at almost US$40-billion, according to Expert Market Research. By 2034, it is expected to reach almost US$60-billion. The price tag for chips has crept up – $6 or more for a family-sized bag might seem outrageous – but it hasn’t slowed sales. Our appetite just keeps growing.

However, we don’t all crave the same thing. In Canada, we love Ketchup and All-Dressed, both homegrown inventions. In India, Lay’s Magic Masala is a top seller. Chinese snackers reach for Italian Red Meat and Cucumber chips, while in the U.K., Walkers Cheese & Onion holds a special place.

“The exposure we now have, through social media, to the global food scene has widened the aperture on people’s perspective of cuisine,” says Milbury.

For chefs, seeing their signature dishes reimagined in snack form can be equal parts flattering and strange. Kevin Risos, chef de cuisine at Ask for Luigi, never thought “in a million years that a potato chip would be made from one of my recipes.” Still, he’s impressed by the result.

“They hit a lot of the right notes,” says Risos, citing the sharp tang and creaminess of the pecorino romano cheese and the smokiness of toasted peppercorns. (He toasts the peppercorns before crushing them, giving his pasta a distinctive edge his customers love.)

Does it compare to a steaming bowl of fresh pasta? Not quite. But, Risos says Italian food and potato chips have one thing in common – they’re both comfort food.

“If you’re sad, you eat potato chips. If you’re happy, you eat potato chips,” says Risos. “Any excuse for a potato chip works.”