Lobster mac and cheese has been around for a long time, but in the aughts, perhaps due to a bump in the lobster supply, it graduated to a full-on restaurant trend. About as extra as Tom Cruise’s jump-on-Oprah’s-couch moment (which also took place in 2005), its appeal transcends both trends and decades. Making it at home is not quite as difficult as the dish’s grandiosity implies. The key is to use the right cheese: fontina is ideal here because it melts so seamlessly into the dreamy homemade white sauce, but Havarti, cantal, or even Monterey Jack are also good choices. And don’t sleep on the dry mustard powder, as it adds a lovely sharpness that helps cut the richness.
Speaking of which, you can certainly use cooked picked lobster meat here, but opting for more economical lobster tails will save you a lot of money. To cook the tails without turning them to rubber, poach them in the pot of water you’ll use for the pasta. They cook quickly — 1 minute per ounce — and can then be set aside until it’s time to bake the mac and cheese. Be sure to set aside one tail to slice and use as garnish — it’s a little bit of extra for a dish that practically invented the concept.
Lobster Mac and Cheese Recipe
1 pound cavatappi pasta
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
5 tablespoons butter
1 large shallot, minced
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
1 bay leaf
1 (3-inch) sprig fresh thyme
2 cups grated fontina cheese (6.5 ounces)
1 teaspoon mustard powder
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt
4 to 5 (4- to 6-ounce) lobster tails (or 8 ounces cooked lobster meat)
1 cup grated aged white cheddar cheese
¼ cup finely chopped chives or green onions, for garnish
Step 1: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Spray a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) baking dish with cooking spray and set aside.
Step 2: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the lobster tails and cook until the tails curl and the shells turn bright red, about 4 minutes for 4-ounce tails. Using tongs, transfer the lobster tails to a bowl of ice water; leave the cooking water in the pot. When the tails are cool enough to handle, cut through the shell on the underside of each tail. Open up the shells and pull out the meat, then discard the shells. Slice one tail for garnish and set aside. Roughly chop the remaining meat and set aside.
Step 3: Return the water in the pot to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, subtracting 1 minute from the suggested cooking time on the package instructions, as the pasta will cook further in the oven. Drain and rinse with cold water. Toss the pasta with the olive oil and set aside.
Step 4: Combine the milk with the bay leaf and thyme sprig in a microwave-safe bowl or small saucepan. Microwave or cook over medium heat until hot to the touch, 3 minutes or 10 minutes respectively. Set aside to steep.
Step 5: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots to the pan and saute until fragrant and tender, 2 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.
Step 6: Whisk in the milk (discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig) and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened slightly, 5 to 6 minutes. During this step, watch the pot closely and scrape up the bottom edges of the pan where the mixture will thicken and tends to stick. Do not let the sauce scorch; reduce heat if needed. Remove from heat.
Step 7: Whisk the fontina cheese into the sauce 1 handful at a time. Add the mustard powder, nutmeg, and cayenne and whisk to combine. Season to taste with salt. Fold in the pasta and chopped lobster meat. (Reserve the sliced lobster meat for garnish.)
Step 8: Pour the pasta mixture into the prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the cheddar cheese. Bake until the sauce is bubbly, 30 minutes. Arrange the reserved lobster tail slices on top of the pasta and bake until heated through, 5 minutes.
Step 9: Sprinkle with chives and serve immediately.
Dina Ávila is a photographer living in Portland, Oregon.
