Aqua Lares is the sixth ship in Aqua Expeditions’ fleet and returns to the Seychelles in November 2026.Anthony Do/Supplied
“Where is everybody?” I ask marine guide Damien Alphonse as our ship bobs along billowing blue waters with not another vessel in sight. “This is it,” he says, waving his hand toward the horizon. “It’s all for us.”
The “it” he’s gesturing to is the Indian Ocean that connects the 115 islands of the Seychelles, off the coast of East Africa. The “us” are the 15 passengers (a mix of South Africans, Canadians, Americans and French) and 33 crew (including three naturalist guides) on board Aqua Lares – a 15-suite ultra-luxury expedition ship that is lazily swanning through the country’s 43 inner granitic islands.
Of course, neither this place, nor the ship are really “mine.” But there is no denying that I’m increasingly more at home here. A no-shoes policy on board has me wandering the halls in plush blue slippers emblazoned with gold octopus as if I do own the place. And when a pod of dolphins appears alongside the ship, seemingly pointing our sturdy vessel forward into paradise, it certainly feels like I’m living a dream made just for me.
Aqua Lares is the sixth ship in Aqua Expeditions’ fleet and the first in the biodiverse archipelago to offer the option of booking a cabin as opposed to chartering the entire ship. It began sailing in February.
Most suites are like my 279-square-foot enclave, which includes a plush king-sized bed, a walk-in shower, two large portholes and plenty of closet space. Staterooms start at US$9,000 a person, double occupancy, for our five-night cruise and includes all meals, house wine, beer and two excursions a day.
Most of the ship’s suites include a king-sized bed, a walk-in shower, two large portholes and lots of closet space.Stevie Mann/Supplied
Luxury yachts are having a moment: Brands from Ritz-Carlton to Orient Express have launched ships. But Aqua Lares, with its relaxed approach to the finer things, may be your best bucket-list option if you like your ships small, your food gourmet, your hospitality warm and your adventures bespoke.
The islands of the Seychelles are a siren song for explorers. However, their isolated location makes them notoriously expensive and challenging to get to. And while there are notable hotels to choose from in the region (including Cheval Blanc and Anantara), the islands’ best sides are seen from the deck of a ship.
It’s here on the sapphire sea that you realize what you’ve paid for: breathing room. Once we leave the island of Mahé (the largest in the Seychelles group and where international flights land), we rarely get close enough to another ship to make out its name. Each day, we gather on the deck to learn our proposed snorkel route. Divers are whisked off on a separate Zodiac than snorkellers, but we gather again over lunch and most afternoons to explore new destinations on land or in the water, together.
Snorkelling in the Seychelles.Supplied
At all but one of our snorkel spots, we have the place to ourselves, making the commune with sea life – everything from eels to rays – feel even more special. I marvel at neon yellow fish, who remain oblivious to the flap of my fins; eyes widened in wonder behind my mask.
We have an itinerary, of course, but from the moment we board, Captain Andriy Bratash makes it clear that delivering a memorable experience – not following a prescribed schedule – is his focus. Our guides, several of whom are Seychellois, know the islands well and excursions all feel insider-led.
At Silhouette Island Marine National Park, golden sands abut frothy whitecaps of turquoise water; bats the size of gulls fly overhead; and a path of coral leads into the forest beyond. It’s my favourite beach stop. That is until we pop into Grande Soeur.
There, a blinding white sand beach is sheltered by mammoth boulders, and sooty terns swoop overhead as we soak. Plus, the ship’s crew surprise us with a beach umbrella setup complete with pop-up bar that keeps us shaded and hydrated in between swims.
At La Digue, we stroll a winding sandy path dwarfed by granite boulders and find locals and tourists alike at the fresh juice bars and souvenir stands on Anse Source d’Argent beach.
An outdoor dining area on the ship.Stevie Mann/Supplied
On the island of Cousin, Clinton shows us around. He’s one of eight rangers stationed there year-round to help protect the white-tailed tropicbirds and giant tortoise (including 145-year-old Gandalf) that call the island home.
And at the UNESCO nature reserve of Vallée de Mai, we follow Iyvan along the pathways that wind amongst the protected coco-de-mer palms and giggle like schoolkids at their voluptuous, bum-shaped seeds that are the heaviest in the plant kingdom. (Some are more than 80 pounds!)
If the Seychelles are the star, Aqua Lares is a strong supporting actor. Each day is a choose-your-own adventure. At sunrise, some go out for off-deck swims; others head for the yoga mats set up on the helicopter pad. And others sleep until breakfast. If you don’t feel like leaving the ship one day, then relax in the hot tub or settle on sun loungers and watch swimmers and paddleboarders do their thing below.
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The bartender can whip you up an Avontuur (Malachite Fynbos gin infused with rooibos tea and rosemary, topped with soda and fresh citrus) or Spice Route (Mamba Anejo Tequila, South African yellow curry, pineapple and yellow capsaicin cordial) to sip while you watch the waves. On the lowest deck, the spa feels like it’s built for two, with a sauna, hot tub and treatment room.
There’s so much to do off-ship that when it’s time to head for home, I realize I never got a chance to sit in the 10-seat cinema or snuggle into the comfy couches surrounded by colour-coded bookshelves.
Staff go the extra mile, greeting us with cold towels and icy drinks when we return from excursions. They arrange for laundry (included in your stay) to be freshly pressed. At each day’s end, we are imbibing champagne and cocktails, while trying to name the colours (fuchsia, mandarin, lavender) that caress the clouds.
Staterooms start at US$9,000 a person, double occupancy, for a five-night cruise and includes all meals, house wine, beer and two excursions a day.Supplied
Each evening, chef Marko Sterlicchi presents dishes that appeal to the eyes as much as the palate. Jaunty napkin rings (purple urchin spikes, translucent pearls) accompany meals served on octopus-motif pottery: Scallops with a lime apple salad served in a seashell. A perfectly cold heirloom tomato gazpacho soup with crostini on a high heat day. “Zanzibar spiced” (vanilla, cumin, cloves) wagyu barbecued to perfection. Every bite fuelling conversations that create fast friendships and promises to stay in touch.
For most people, visiting the Seychelles is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Exploring on Aqua Lares with a team as invested in your experience as in their love for the place feels fitting.
Aqua Expeditions’ Aqua Lares returns to the Seychelles in November, 2026. A five-night voyage to La Digue & Seychelles’ Inner Islands departs on Nov. 23. Staterooms on the 15-suite yacht start at US$9,270 a person, double occupancy. aquaexpeditions.com.
The writer was a guest of Aqua Expeditions, which did not review or approve this article. Stories are based on merit; The Globe does not guarantee coverage.
