U.S. President Donald Trump’s pause on promised tariffs on Canada means popular American liquor and wines are back on liquor store shelves, but these bestselling brands risk leaving a bad taste. A 30-day reprieve from a notoriously unstable leader is unlikely to encourage an immediate return to old shopping routines.
If you’re one of the many looking to drink local, there’s an abundance of Canadian wine and spirits to discover. There’s sure to be a made-in-Canada substitute for any former staples. This week’s recommendations are homegrown alternatives to classic and crowd-pleasing chardonnay styles from California and other American wine regions.
Of course, there isn’t a single style of chardonnay. There is a range of styles and expressions depending on the climate and weather as well as the philosophy and ambition of the winemaking team. That said, many bestselling American chardonnays share similar traits. They are ripe and rich white wines, with full bodied and creamy characters.
They have generous tropical fruit flavours such as pineapple and mango as well as apple and citrus notes. Most popular choices also display significant oak influence, with vanilla, toasty and toffee notes. It’s an overarching style that I would classify as rich and rewarding, one that many Canadian chardonnays successfully convey especially in warmer vineyard locations and hot and dry vintages.
These seven selections are presented as replacements to the bold Cali-style wines based on flavour profile and price. Some labels and wine regions are missing because they don’t fit the brief. Yes, brilliant chardonnays are made in Quebec – and more refreshing chardonnay styles are made across Canada – but I wouldn’t recommend them to someone whose go-to bottle is Bread and Butter Chardonnay.
The one outlier is the more expensive and expressive white blend from Soren, an exciting new label from the Okanagan. It pushes the price envelope but it’s too good not to pass along while bottles of its 60-case production are still available.
Gray Monk Unwooded Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $20.99
“No wood, no good” was the slogan Australian winemaker John Glaetzer used to sum up his flavourful winemaking philosophy, but it’s clear that not all expressions of chardonnay need the crutch of oak to be satisfying. The smooth and inviting style of Gray Monk’s unoaked chardonnay makes an impression. Expect a mix of citrus, melon and orchard flavours as part of this juicy white wine. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Henry of Pelham The Goat Lady Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $14.95
The Goat Lady is named for a former neighbour of the winery, who won the heart of the Speck family’s dog (Boswell) by feeding it goat milk. While many Niagara chardonnays embrace purity and precision, this leans into ripeness and richness. It’s not genuflecting toward the monks in Burgundy. It’s a student of the California sunshine school. The flavours run toward yellow apple and peach, with a creamy texture and toffee on the finish. A crowd-pleasing and full-bodied style that’s a solid winter white. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario and direct, henryofpelham.com, various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Manitoba, $21.95 in New Brunswick, $24.98 in Nova Scotia.
Henry of Pelham Three Hills Estate Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $17.70
Made in a rich and refreshing style, Henry of Pelham’s classic estate chardonnay strikes a chord between juicy fruit and oak-derived character. A core of citrus fruit keeps things fresh, while generous spicy, cedary and toasty notes add richness, which is enhanced by the wine’s fuller body. There’s density that makes this easy to appreciate, but an underlying steeliness that provides a necessary backbone. A modern and moreish chardonnay that’s well-priced. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $17.95 direct, henryofpelham.com.
Redstone Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $17.40
Redstone is a sibling to Tawse, the Niagara winery that built a strong following thanks to quality chardonnays, especially its affordable estate and Quarry Road bottlings. This stylish white wine comes from organic vineyards in and around Beamsville and benefits from fermentation and 12 months aging in French oak. Its core of citrus and apple fruit gains some depth from tropical fruit and toasty and spicy notes, which contribute to a complex and compelling chardonnay character. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
See Ya Later Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $19.99
This simple yet effective chardonnay is a solid representation of See Ya Later’s easy-to-appreciate house style. It’s a pleasing model of the peaches-and-cream chardonnay expression that’s common in the Okanagan, with fleshy fruit flavours, moderate oak and a rounded texture. Aging in a mix of American and French oak barrels plumps up the body and richness. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia or direct, greatestatesokanagan.com, various prices in Alberta.
Soren Results May Vary Rousanne Marsanne Viognier 2022 (Canada), $35
Soren is a virtual winery operated by winemaker Ryan McKibbon and marketer Geoffrey Moss, one of 10 Masters of Wine in Canada. The two met during winemaking studies at Niagara College and launched their label with a viognier made in the 2021 vintage. This rich and rewarding white blend is a mix of rousanne and marsanne with a splash of viognier (1 per cent) from a vineyard located on the Osoyoos West Bench in the Okanagan. Aging in a combination of old and new oak barrels (60 per cent old, 20 per cent new) and stainless-steel tanks contributes to the texture and freshness of a rich white wine that gets the balance right. At 13.1 per cent and 3.2 g/litre residual sweetness, this is a dry and distinctive wine with fragrance and second-glass appeal. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, soren.wine.
Strewn Chardonnay Barrel-Aged 2023 (Canada), $15.05
This is a popcorn style of chardonnay, with strong oak presence and lots of dairy and sweetcorn flavours. A faithful expression of the bold, buttery style with toasty and nutty accents, this isn’t for everyone. But fans of full-bodied and creamy chardonnays should take note. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15 direct, strewnwinery.com.
