When a bevy of international winery owners and winemakers gathered for the New York Wine Experience last October, one word was on everyone’s lips and it wasn’t “cheers.”
“Headwinds” was the word of the weekend. It was uttered any time talk turned to declining consumption or the oversupply of grapes or wine.
The wine industry faces serious challenges as consumers drink less than previous generations, embrace healthier habits including Dry January and Sober October campaigns and shop for alternative alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and cannabis. Everyone is competing to capture the attention of the pool of engaged consumers.
Demographics continue to shift. Alcohol producers must address consumers with strained budgets, evolving tastes and preferences and new ways to shop.
But it’s not all doom and gloom. There are tailwinds propelling growth and noticeable trends that will shape the industry in the coming months. Here are three categories that help to define how we drink in 2025 along with some related recommendations.
Lighter and brighter wines
White, rosé and sparkling wines keep outperforming red wine, which has been trending down for the past 20 years. A changing diet (always from red meat to more vegetable and fish) is seen as one of the contributing factors. Rising temperatures are another, as riper grapes contribute to the production of sweet and jammy reds that taste more like dry port than traditional expressions. (Hot days also make thirst-quenching pink and white wines more enjoyable.) California’s intense interest in chardonnay is being matched by accelerating interest in other varieties, especially sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio/gris and Rhône varieties (viognier, marsanne and roussanne). Wineries in Argentina are producing white malbec to meet the needs of a changing market, while white wine varieties have a rising profile to bring diversity to regions known for sturdy red wines, such as the Rhône, Umbria and Piedmont.
Flex drinking
Also called tempo drinking or zebra striping, the practice of switching between alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks isn’t new, but its more sophisticated than water and wine served with dinner thanks to an interesting range of non-alcoholic drink options. No matter what the on/off drinking practice is called, it shows no-alcohol beverages have been embraced by drinkers as part of a balanced lifestyle.
Minimalist cocktails
As garnishes for Caesars threaten to reach Mandarin buffet proportions, mixologists are going minimal. They are leaning into classic spirit-focused cocktails made with intent and quality ingredients, which means it’s the martini’s time to shine. There are so many ways to tailor your drink: shaken or stirred, olive or twist, with gin or vodka. There is ever-expanding choice given the range of gins with different botanicals and distinctive vodkas influenced by their base ingredients. There is also a growing array of vermouths beyond the usual suspects (Martini, Dolin or Noilly Prat) to consider. Whether you’re looking back at a classic recipe or reimagining your approach, the martini offers a framework to get creative.
Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2023 (Spain), $13.90
Refreshing and flavourful white wines from Rueda like this continue to impress. The brisk and herbal character offers a sauvignon blanc vibe as part of its balanced and pleasant style. Simple green fruit (pear, apple) combine with citrus and straw notes. Drink now. Vegan. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in Manitoba, $15.70 in Quebec.
Brigaldara Soave 2023 (Italy), $13
This refreshing white is made with grapes grown on 43-year-old garganega vines planed in the eastern part of Verona. Cool fermentation helps to preserve the citrus, tree fruit (peach, pear) and floral notes in a wine with marked acidity and decent length. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
La Copa White Vermouth (Spain), $22.60
Based on Gonzalez Byass’s original recipe, this smooth and full-bodied vermouth is based on a selection of Fino sherries with traditional botanicals, including wormwood, orange peel and nutmeg, and sweetened (142 g/l residual sweetness). The bittersweet flavour suggests an appealing mix of zesty marmalade with spicy and honeyed notes that’s best enjoyed chilled on its own or served over ice, with or without soda water. Drink now. Vegan. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
La Quintinye Extra-Dry Royal Vermouth (France), $26.90
This is made from colombard, gros manseng and ugni blanc (trebbiano) grapes typically used to create the regional aperitif, Pineau des Charentes, with a reported 27 botanicals including wormwood, cardamon and ginger. The unique style is bracingly dry, herbal and tart thanks to the mix of zesty lemon, pine and white pepper notes. The character is often compared to Fino sherry. To my taste, it’s ideal for martinis, but I also enjoy it on its own over ice as an aperitif.
Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $27.30 in Quebec.
Mailroom Premium Vodka (Canada), $37.95
The first brand launched by Topikos Spirit & Beverage Company, Mailroom is a silkly vodka distilled in Guelph from a base of Canadian soft red winter wheat. The spirit shows some spicy grain and citrus notes that make it appealing served chilled and neat or in a cocktail.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $37.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $37.99 in Manitoba.
Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2023 (United States), $18.95
Produced in California’s Central Coast, Morning Fog is consistently made in a crowd-pleasing, flavourful style. A 50/50 mix of tank and barrel fermentation, with a small addition (5 per cent) of gewurztraminer in the blend, contributes to the layers of apple and tropical fruit enhanced by floral, cream and vanilla notes.
Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $22.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $21.99 in Manitoba, $20.05 in Quebec, $23.50 in New Brunswick, $25.96 in Nova Scotia, $21.76 in Prince Edward Island, $23.56 in Newfoundland.