When Fenty Beauty by Rihanna launched in 2017, its debut foundation range spanning 40 shades pushed inclusivity to the forefront of the beauty conversation.
“It felt like every makeup brand went into a panic,” says Shirley Ibe, a Calgary-based makeup artist and the founder of Madeup Beauty. “Fenty challenged the industry and pushed boundaries.”
The Barbadian singer had jumpstarted the “Fenty effect.”
Rihanna’s launch, in partnership with French luxury company LVMH, caused a stir for several reasons, including selling US$100-million in products in its first month. But also because so many shades were offered all at once, and because the collection was balanced with substantial options for every skin tone from fair to deep. Another detail: The darker shades were quick to sell out.
This revelation ran in opposition to the boiler-plate statement that Toronto-based beauty expert Tracy Peart had heard many times since starting out at makeup counters in the early 2000s. “I was told ‘it wouldn’t sell’ more than once,” she says, of her inquiries about extended shades over the years. “Then I started to see other makeup brands slowly getting the point,” recalls Peart. “Fenty is not a Black-only line. It’s for everybody and it sells.”
Now, nearly a decade later, cosmetic consumers with medium to deep skin tones have more options from mass and indie brands alike. “I will give a round of applause for the progress, it’s been significant, but I don’t want to pretend we’re where we need to be and we’re done now,” says Peart.
The fact remains that Black and brown complexions are still underserved by many brands that claim to be inclusive. “Formulating makeup for deeper skin tones is not fundamentally different from formulating for lighter skin tones,” says Julie Sinitambirivoutin, a cosmetic chemist in Montreal. “However, one of the biggest challenges is accurately identifying the vast spectrum of undertones present in darker skin.”
She notes that the colour-matching process should also involve extensive testing with a diverse panel of individuals. “Unfortunately, not all companies prioritize this level of testing, which can result in shade ranges that fail to truly cater to deeper skin tones.”
As recently documented by Golloria George, a social-media content creator of South Sudanese heritage, lines with decades of formulation expertise such as Anastasia Beverly Hills and Too Faced are still missing the mark. “Inclusivity should not be treated as a marketing trend or a selling point; it must be a fundamental industry standard,” Sinitambirivoutin says.
In a 2022 report on Black representation in the beauty industry, business magazine McKinsey Quarterly found that “from entry-level to the C-suite, and from retailers to beauty houses, only four to five per cent of employees in the U.S. beauty industry are Black.”
The report also noted that addressing racial equity in the beauty industry is a US$2.6-billion opportunity and that “better serving Black consumers and supporting Black beauty brands could lead to greater equity across the industry.”
Inclusion also needs to be a through line into the consumer experience where the complete collection is available for all in stores, rather than select shades only online. “I still remember that feeling as a teenager, when all you want to do is fit in and shop like your friends. It just doesn’t feel good to be relegated to very few options, or not to have the option at all,” says Peart. “It’s not just like some cheesy cliché: Inclusion matters, it really does.”
Six buys to try
These Black-owned brands are making shades that are a flawless match for medium to deep complexions.
From a Montreal-based line, versatility rules this cream-based stick available in nine shades. It can be used as complexion coverage, or to contour or highlight the face. Nagi Cosmetics Multipurpose Beauty Stick, $38 through nagicosmetics.com
Fifty: the number of undertone-specific shades available in a long-wear liquid concealer that offers buildable and crease-proof coverage to brighten dark under eyes, cover blemishes and even out discolouration. Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Concealer, $41 through fentybeauty.com
This new launch from an Alberta-based brand imparts a natural-looking flush on darker skin tones. The deep rosy hue is made with aloe vera, jojoba seed oil and shea butter for a moisturizing sheen. Madeup Beauty Creamy Temptation Blush in Sundae, $27 through madeupbeauty.com
Available in warm pink to rich chocolate, and formulated with shea butter, this five-shade range of creamy and waterproof lip liners delivers a seamless match for darker skin tones. Ami Colé Soft Shape Lip Liner in Café Touba, $26 through amicole.com
Whether worn alone on the face or on top of foundation or blush, this balm, which transforms to powder, contains pearl pigments with a subtle hint of colour to create a glow. Danessa Myricks Beauty Yummy Skin Blurring Balm Lowlighter in Off the Grid, US$25 through danessamyricksbeauty.com
From the British makeup artist who has created countless beauty looks for fashion runway shows, this blendable, smudge-resistant cream shadow combines the warmth of sienna with pink and gold shimmer to brighten the eyes. Pat McGrath Labs FetishEYES Longwear Liquid Eye Shadow in Smouldering Seduction, $38 through patmcgrathlabs.com