The lineup at Christie and Dupont starts forming around 11 a.m. and by noon stretches nearly three-quarters of a block. By 2 p.m., the line is much shorter — just eight or ten people, ending at the door of the former bank building that’s been lovingly restored by the young owners of Golden Horseshoe BBQ.
The line moves at a medium pace, but no one seems to mind. People chat, ask advice from veterans, and eye the trays of meat that pass by. Inside, the dining room is packed, and on a quick walk-through you’ll notice something striking: tables of happy customers eating in near silence. Not because they aren’t enjoying themselves — quite the opposite. Everyone looks a little lost in thought, daydreaming in their own BBQ trance.
At the counter, the operation hums like a well-practiced orchestra. The quarterback of the team slices brisket, ribs, sausage and chicken to order, weighing each cut and often charging just under the true weight — a generous touch. Occasionally, little morsels of brisket or pork ends are tossed onto butcher paper for those in line, a thoughtful detail that matches the spirit of the place.
By 2 p.m. the chicken is already gone (we just missed it — someone four spots ahead snagged the last one). Still, we ordered a spread: ribs, brisket, sausage, Texas chili and coleslaw. Desserts looked amazing, and there was even a new menu item — something like a knish, bread on the outside, meat and cheese inside — that I’ll have to call back about. The banana cream pudding is the undeniable star of the sweets.
The drinks fridge is pure nostalgia — stacked with Fanta, Grape Crush, Dr. Pepper, ginger ale and even cartons of milk. And honestly, what goes better with barbecue than an ice-cold, sugary soda? Prices are refreshingly fair too: sausages for $7, half a chicken for $20, brisket for $23, ribs for $15, with sides between $6 and $9.
At the cashier, one of the owners shared stories of the bumpy road to opening: city delays, costly ventilation systems (the same ones required for the Loblaws across the street), and even a graffiti tagger who has forced them to repaint the façade multiple times. It’s a reminder of how tough it can be for small businesses in a city that often seems to favour big ones.
Out back on the patio, we struck up a conversation with a young woman working on her laptop. “Do you handle the social media for this place?” we asked. She laughed —“No, I’m just the girlfriend of the smoker.” And right on cue, came Andrew Golden himself. She waved him over and introduced us. As we dug into our meal, we told him how good the food was. Then his mom appeared in an apron, beaming with pride. He introduced her and we asked if she was on the payroll. “I am now,” she said.
His story is as good as the barbecue. Before Golden Horseshoe, his “restaurant” was little more than a smoker rolled into the driveway at Avenue Road and Lawrence, firing up at 5 a.m. But the real grind was at food events across the city, where he ran pop-ups to squirrel away enough money for his dream venture — the one I’m now sitting in, Golden Horseshoe BBQ. Still only in his 20s, calm, friendly, and clearly excited, he’s earned his stripes working at Carbon Bar, one of Toronto’s better barbecue spots on Queen near St. Mike’s Hospital.
And the food reflects that pedigree.
• Sausage – sliced and subtly infused with cheese, one of the best I’ve ever had.
• Brisket – lean (as requested), tender, with just the right touch of smoke. Two sauces complement it perfectly.
• Ribs – spot-on texture: not fatty, not falling apart, with a satisfying bite.
• Texas chili – the real deal: no beans, just chunks of brisket simmered into a smoky, hearty stew. Pure comfort.
• Coleslaw – vinegar-based, no mayo, crisp and clean — exactly how I like it.
• Pickles – an unlisted surprise tucked into the bag: tangy, fresh, and absolutely addictive.
This isn’t barbecue trying to please everyone by over-smoking or over-seasoning. It’s a light touch, great ingredients and confident cooking from someone who clearly could master any kitchen craft.
Golden Horseshoe BBQ isn’t just my new favourite barbecue spot in the city — I think it might be yours too. I can’t wait to go back and try the chicken and if I have room a banana pudding. Oh, and those pickles
