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If there’s one step in a skincare routine that tends to generate the most confusion, it’s the serum. Do you apply it before or after moisturizer? Can you layer multiple serums? Does the order actually matter? The questions are endless—and the answers aren’t always consistent depending on whom you ask.
Serums have become a staple for good reason. Formulated with a higher concentration of active ingredients than most moisturizers, they’re designed to target specific concerns—whether that’s hyperpigmentation, fine lines, dehydration or dullness—and deliver results that a basic lotion simply can’t. But getting the most out of a serum comes down to more than just picking the right one. How and when you apply it matters just as much.
To cut through the noise, we asked Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist who has encountered just about every skincare woe you could ever imagine. She’s also skilled at advising her patients on building topnotch skincare routines to help them achieve their complexion goals.
Throughout her career, Garshick has mastered the art of applying serums correctly, and she has an endless amount of easy tips and genius tricks. From the best time to apply serum in your routine to how to apply serum for maximum absorption, we asked her to share her knowledge with us—including revealing five common serum mistakes to avoid.
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The Best Way To Apply Serum, According to a Dermatologist
We’ve always adored simple, yet effective beauty tricks, so when Garshick shared her go-to tip for applying serum, we were relieved to hear that it was refreshingly straightforward.
“One serum trick that some people don’t realize is that certain serums, specifically hydrating serums containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, are actually more effective when applied to damp skin,” she tells Parade.
For this reason, the dermatologist notes that’s it’s best to apply these serums right after cleansing so the skin can better absorb them. If you need to wait a bit after cleansing, there’s still another way to obtain the same benefit.
“Spray skin with a thermal spring water just prior to applying the serum,” she says.
When this trick doesn’t work
On the other hand, if you’re applying anything other than a hydrating serum, it’s best to wait until your skin is dry to apply it.
“Serums containing active ingredients like retinol or vitamin C can actually be more irritating if applied to damp skin,” Garshick says.
How to apply serum for maximum absorption
Serums can be pretty pricey, so ensuring that you apply them for maximum absorption and skincare benefits is always top of mind for many beauty buffs. To get started, Garshick recommends using only a few drops and gently pressing the serum into skin.
“Use your fingertips rather than aggressively rubbing it in,” she says. “Pressing helps minimizing unnecessary friction while ensuring adequate absorption.”
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How To Layer Serums Correctly
Since every serum has a different skincare goal in mind, layering them is sometimes the best way to supercharge your routine. The act of layering any skincare products can feel intimidating, but Garshick says it’s really quite easy if you follow one simple rule.
“When layering serums, I generally recommend applying products from thinnest to thickest. This helps ensure each product can properly penetrate the skin,” she explains.
For example, the derm is a fan of Circadia Myo-Cyte Anti-Wrinkle Serum and RescueMD DNA Repair Complex. In the case of these two products, she recommends starting off with the anti-wrinkle serum then following it with the creamier repair complex.
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The Best Time To Apply Serum in Your Routine
Similar to other skincare products, serums should be applied at a specific point in your skincare routine if you want to glean all the benefits they have to offer.
“Serums are generally applied after cleansing and before moisturizer. This allows the concentrated active ingredients to come into direct contact with the skin and for optimal absorption,” Garshick says.
The ideal timing can also depend on the ingredients in the product.
“Antioxidant serums, such as those with vitamin C, are often best used in the morning to help defend against environmental stressors. Repair serums, growth factor serums, DNA repair serums and retinoid-containing products are best in an evening routine,” the derm explains.
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5 Common Serum Mistakes To Avoid
Want to set your skincare routine up for success? Garshick shares five common serum mistakes to avoid if you want to see results.
1. Using too much product
With serums, less is really more.
“Some people assume more serum will deliver better results, but using too much amounts can lead to pilling and irritation. Most serums require only a few drops to cover the entire face,” Garshick tells Parade.
2. Layering too many active ingredients at once
Your skin is pretty resilient, but you shouldn’t test it by using too many potentially irritating ingredients together.
“Combining multiple potent actives (such as retinoids, exfoliating acids and vitamin C) can increase irritation without necessarily improving results. Unless otherwise recommended or formulated into the same product, don’t combine too many ingredients at the same time,” Garshick warns.
Related: 7 Creams With Hyaluronic Acid That Are Perfect for Dry Skin Over 50
3. Not matching the serum to your skin’s needs
Skincare needs vary from one complexion to the next. For this reason, it’s best to listen to your skin instead of trying a product just because it’s trendy.
“A serum that works well for one person may not be right for another. Choose ingredients based on your specific concerns, whether it’s pigmentation, redness, dryness, signs of aging or post-procedure recovery,” Garshick says.
4. Not choosing the right serum formulation
With so many serums to choose from, finding the right formulation for your unique skin type is critical.
“Lightweight serums may be preferable for oily or acne-prone skin, while slightly richer formulations can be beneficial for dry, mature or post-procedure skin,” Garshick says.
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5. Expecting immediate results
Skincare routines are truly an exercise in patience, and you won’t immediately notice an improvement when you start using a new product.
“Most serums require consistent use over several weeks to months to see benefits. Patience and consistency are essential for achieving the best outcomes,” Garshick says.
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Source:
- Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist.
