The global pantry: The foods chefs bring home from their travels | Canada Voices

Nothing gives me more pleasure than stocking my home pantry with delicious finds from my travels. Over the years, my suitcase has made space for everything from 25-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy, to a litre of naturally fragrant rose water from one of the oldest distilleries in Indian-controlled Kashmir.

I always carve out at least an hour to check out a grocery store or market during a trip, even if my stay is fleeting. Unlike the mundane weekly shop at home, these international pit stops are less about grabbing necessities and more about discovering the unknown. They also give me a window into the local culture.

The nine chefs I spoke with about edible souvenirs feel the same. Here, they give us a taste of the shelf-stable treats tucked inside their bags.

Just remember: When travelling, you must declare all food products upon arrival in Canada. You can bring up to 20 kilograms of dried fruit and vegetables, spices, lentils and legumes for personal use, 20 litres of liquids (including honey and hot sauce) and up to 50 litres of food-grade oils. For more information, visit cbsa-asfc.gc.ca.

Nigeria

Yaji (suya spice): This spiced peanut rub from northern Nigeria gets its characteristic taste from a peanut snack called kuli-kuli, says Funmilade Taiwo, private chef and curator of the At Home with FT supper clubs in Toronto.

“Yaji is typically used to make suya, a very popular street food made with beef or chicken. When Nigerians move, they miss the taste of suya; people make it at home, but it’s never the same as grilling it on coals.

“You can find yaji in almost every supermarket in Nigeria, or you can visit the markets. The people who make suya on the streets are called mallams, and if you have a good relationship with them, they can also make you a spice blend. My dad has a guy who makes yaji fresh – it’s not like the mass-produced ones you pick up from African stores here – so every time I’m back in Nigeria, I try to bring home at least a few months’ supply.”

Morocco

Amlou: This almond paste made with argan oil and honey is usually served with bread during breakfast, says Amine Laabi, chef-owner of Montreal’s Leila and Loumi. “It’s super delicious and very nutritious.”

“Amlou is a cross between peanut butter and Nutella. Peanut butter is heavy, but this is made with almonds, so it’s lighter. Argan oil, which is unique to Morocco, is a bit smoky and adds a depth of flavour that takes it to another level.

“When I was young, we used to travel near the mountains with my family. The ladies from the villages would harvest the ingredients, then sell amlou on the highway. That’s actually the best one you can find because it comes straight from the source. But it’s very common across Morocco.”

Denmark

Tubes of fish: In Denmark’s grocery stores, gas stations and high-end shops, you’ll find different types of fish purées in squeezable foil tubes, shares Kelsey Johnson, culinary instructor at Northern Alberta Institute of Technology. “It spans the gamut from very affordable to very refined.”

“I know that fish paste sounds bad, but think smoked salmon mixed with crème fraiche in a tube, essentially. It’s an umami flavour builder, using good-quality ingredients and a preparation method that Danes are really proud of. It reminds me of tinned products from Portugal. It travels really well, you can take it anywhere with you, and they last a long time before opening. You throw the cap on and keep it in the fridge for a while.

“When I first saw this ingredient there, I was like, ‘What is this?!’ But I kind of love it, especially for smorrebrod, or open-faced sandwiches. Smoked char or the classic fish roe caviar were my favourites.”

Turkey & Azerbaijan

Lavashak/pestil: Chef Amir Saman Ahmadivafa of Vancouver’s Como Taperia fondly remembers what he calls “sour fruit roll-ups.” These fruit leathers are a popular snack in several Middle Eastern countries.

“I’m from Iran. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to visit in eight years now, but I met my father in Turkey last year. He literally brought me a suitcase full of pantry items like walnuts, dried rose petals and a beloved snack of mine: lavashak.

“It’s sweet and sour, depending on the fruit. But I love the more sour ones the most. It’s like an after-meal snack situation. One of my favourite things to do is put a little bit of salt on it as well. Gosh, I’m drooling just thinking about it.”

India

Achaar: These jars of pickled fruit or veggies plus spices come in many different styles and are popular across South Asia. At any given time, Miheer Shete, chef-founder of Toronto’s Curryish Tavern, will have five or six different types in his pantry. “They don’t go bad easily, so you can enjoy them any time.”

“Back home in India, my grandfather owned a spice shop for over 50 years. When I was a kid, I did my summer job with him, packing spices. Every time I go back, I bring different spices with me.

“I don’t buy a specific brand of achaar; I look for the style and the region it’s from. In places like Calcutta, in the east, achaar will typically contain a lot of mustard, which gives a different taste compared to South or North Indian achaars. People usually know mango, but look for lime, drumstick, jackfruit and gooseberry. You can take achaar, blend it into a purée and use it as a marinade for fish, or add some to a curry to give it a pungent, acidic, sour taste.”

Japan

Myoga: This Japanese ginger is typically rosy in colour and resembles a flower bud. It grows in gardens throughout the country and is a supermarket staple, but bringing it back fresh is an impossibility, says Yuuki Sato, chef and co-founder of Little Tokyo Ramen in Kelowna, B.C. “That’s why pickled myoga is a go-to condiment for me.”

“Myoga has a unique, floral but spicy flavour, and even when pickled it still retains its texture. Thinly sliced, it can be used as a garnish on a variety of dishes, from noodles to tofu or even on a salad. You cannot grow up in Japan without having eaten it – it’s that common. Now, it’s a subtle reminder of meals at home with my family in Japan.”

China

Haidai: This edible kelp, known as kombu in Japan, dashima in Korea and haidai in China, is popular across East Asia. Executive chef Ying Gao, of Whistler’s Araxi Restaurant + Oyster Bar, uses it at home often in soups and cold dishes, or to gently infuse flavour into broths. “Haidai is widely available at Japanese and Asian grocery stores, especially in cities like Vancouver and Richmond,” she says. “It’s usually found in the dried foods section.”

“I grew up by the sea in Qinhuangdao, China, where seaweed was always in our kitchen. I like having haidai in my pantry because it’s incredibly dependable. It brings depth and balance to food with very little effort.

“On a personal level, it connects me to how I learned to eat and cook. In many ways, haidai reminds me that good ingredients don’t need to announce themselves. In a professional kitchen, I use kombu more deliberately. It’s essential for making dashi, and I also like grinding it into a fine powder to use as a seasoning, sometimes blended into salt. It’s a subtle way to build umami and structure without overpowering a dish.”

Mexico

Morita chili peppers: These dried chilies can be found in local markets and easily transported back to Canada, says Israel Alvarez Molina, chef-owner of MAiiZ Nixtamal Eatery & Tortilleria in Victoria.

“Having grown up in Mexico, chilies are an essential part of my nostalgia. Every single dried chili has a distinct flavour or application. For me, the most iconic one is the morita pepper. Usually, dried red jalapenos become chipotle, right? But if the producers decide to ripen on the vine and smoke it with mesquite wood, then it becomes morita.

“It has a smoky barbecue flavour with tobacco notes – it’s amazing. Its essence in flavour and smell is like nothing else. The moment I reheat the chilies in a Mexican vessel called a comal, and the fragrant smells hit my nose, I’m immediately transported to Mexico.”

Valentina hot sauce: Ever since Dany Duguay brought this condiment home, it has been a standout in her hot sauce collection: “I can probably polish off a bottle a week,” says the chef/owner of Halifax’s Anemone Dining.

“I usually reach for the yellow label because you can’t take away spice, but you can add. It’s really versatile, vinegary and bright; it has some warm spice notes that make it comforting. The black one is extra hot and definitely a really intense hot sauce, but the yellow one is sort of like the Mexican Frank’s.

“I like to turn it into a Buffalo-style hot sauce for chicken wings, with butter and a little maple syrup, just to balance it out. That’s one of my favourite ways to eat it, and it’s an easy way to use lots of it. Here in Halifax, I often get it from a little Latino grocery store.”

These interviews have been edited and condensed.