The insiders’ guide to Mexico | Canada Voices

Mexico’s sunny climate has never been so attractive, as Canadian travellers look for warm weather alternatives to U.S. destinations.

The Mexican Ministry of Tourism reported that the number of Canadians flying into the country during the first six months of 2025 increased by 11.8 per cent compared with the year before, an increase of almost 200,000 visitors.

The country’s affordability, sublime weather, and impressive restaurants and hotels have attracted many who wish to bypass the prickly culture of today’s America, resulting in 11,022,128 foreign tourists flying into Mexico during the first half of the year. That’s an increase of 12.1 per cent over 2019 numbers, the tourism board noted.

As a Canadian who has spent the past 15 winters living in Mexico, the country has become my second home. I’m only surprised that these numbers aren’t higher. I interviewed six savvy insiders who shared their best secrets and tips about some of Mexico’s most interesting places.

Puerto Vallarta

Arrive direct by air to Puerto Vallarta, around five hours flying time from Toronto or Vancouver, or just over six hours from Montreal.

Your insider: Miriam Flores, local chef, restaurateur, author and cooking school owner and director

For Flores, Puerto Vallarta is a city that is home to many expats, but has still retained its Mexican heart in the state of Jalisco. “Jalisco runs through my veins,” says Flores. “My family hails from this region. I adore how Vallarta combines the charm of a traditional Mexican pueblo with a range of modern amenities, creating a vibrant destination. It’s also the allure of one of the world’s deepest bays and breathtaking sunsets that draws people here.”

Puerto Vallarta is a great foodie town where she operates Café de Flores, which mixes her heritage cooking with Cordon Bleu training. Flores began teaching cooking classes 18 years ago, but after class, she often dines out.

The city offers everything from feet-in-the-sand beach bars serving huevos divorciados (“divorced eggs” consisting of two poached eggs, one covered in red sauce, one in green, separated by refried beans), to the elegance of sea urchin and aguachile at one of Flores’s favourite restaurants, Tintoque. Her other go-to dining spots are currently Cha’ for a generous breakfast, Il Pesce Cucina Di Mare for fresh seafood with an Italian twist and Makal on Playa La Lancha.

“For a more relaxed dining experience, have some steamed beef tacos and seafood on the beach at Xalli Club,” Flores says.

To find less chaos and more quiet, head south toward Cabo Corrientes to small villages such as Yelapa and Quimixto. Boats will take you there and back from the main pier in Puerto Vallarta, or those who are adventurous can hop on a bus and go down the coast to Boca de Tomatlan to hike a trail along the ocean.

“I love going to La Palapa on Los Muertos Beach. They serve an excellent breakfast,” says Flores. “For the perfect sunset cocktail, try El Barracuda or the Pinnacle.” She also suggests visiting Colomitos Beach, which is down the south coast, tucked away in a protected cove.

Flores recommends a visit to the Vallarta Botanical Garden where there is local art on display, live music, spectacular gardens and a river you can swim in.

Artists, both beginners or amateurs, can join a Friday morning meet-up to paint and then share sketches over lunch with Puerto Vallarta Plein Air Painters, a group started by Canadian artist Angie McIntosh. Also take time to visit the Arte Vallarta Museo, which is dedicated to the history, preservation and celebration of the art and artists of Banderas Bay. On many evenings, there is live music and drinks in the museum’s courtyard.

What to eat: Cocadas, a Puerto Vallarta specialty, are little triangular mounds of chewy sweet coconut sold by vendors along the Malecón.

Where to stay: Casitas Maraika is an oceanside retreat accessible only by boat or by hiking the ocean trail. Or for a luxury experience, Flores recommends Hacienda San Angel, a boutique hotel with views of the iconic church, Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, and the ocean.

San Miguel de Allende

Most flights have a stopover, usually in Mexico City, to reach the city of Querétaro. From there, it’s a one-hour drive to San Miguel de Allende.

Your insider: Guillermo González Engelbrecht, hotelier and lifelong resident of San Miguel de Allende

González Engelbrecht operates Suites Santo Domingo, a small hotel that his expatriate grandfather bought in 1949. It began as a residence for students who came to study art and learn Spanish at Instituto Allende. Visitors still come to the institute for classes in art, sculpture or traditional Mexican weaving.

“San Miguel de Allende is a very European-style city built by the Spaniards, yet it retains its Mexican charm as well,” González Engelbrecht explains. “There are no traffic lights and the architecture is carefully controlled, with shades of terracotta maintained in buildings in the town.”

The city also offers the opportunity to attend author readings, visit galleries, listen to chamber music or enjoy the annual jazz festival in mid-November, which has attracted artists such as Tino Contreras, Eddie Daniels and Alexis Cole.

Sometimes less structure is better, González Engelbrecht notes. “Take an amble through the Colonia Guadeloupe neighbourhood and perhaps get happily lost in its alleyways,” he says. “The area is a slightly bohemian enclave – really an outdoor art gallery with large-scale murals, renovated colonial homes and artisanal shops.”

The pleasure of sitting in the garden at the town’s centre, reading in the shade, dining in the little restaurants that line the square and enjoying mariachi music in the early evening hours never gets old. If you are lucky, there may be an appearance of mojigangas, the gigantic puppet figures made from papier mâché that are part of traditional Mexican culture. You can learn to make a smaller version in a workshop with local artist Hermes Arroyo. Try Hotel Carmina for a traditional Mexican breakfast in an open-air courtyard.

At sunset, González Engelbrecht recommends the Luna Rooftop bar in the Rosewood hotel for a front-row view of the town and the pink neo-Gothic towers of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. “Or try the rooftop bar at Selina for a margarita, where the views of the Parroquia lit up at night are amazing.”

What to eat: Tumbagón, a sweet trumpet-shaped wafer dusted with powdered sugar and flavoured with anise or vanilla, a traditional artisanal pastry of San Miguel. Enjoy with a cup of coffee.

Where to stay: Casa de Sierra Nevada, a Belmond hotel, comprised of seven 16th-century homes.

Guadalajara

Arrive in one-and-a-half hours by air from Mexico City, or by a direct five-hour flight from Toronto.

Your insider: Alexandra Duncan, art and architecture guide with tour company Camina GDL

“Smaller and more manageable than Mexico City, Guadalajara is also known as the San Francisco of Mexico,” Duncan says. “It is a surprisingly liberal city in a very Catholic country.”

“Guadalajara is a young and vibrant city with an amazing art scene, much of it hidden inside studios or tucked away in industrial buildings that have been turned into galleries,” adds the Canadian, whose love of the city has been nurtured over nine years as a resident.

There is great street art here too – this was, after all, home to one of Mexico’s most famous muralists, José Clemente Orozco. You’ll find 57 of his murals in Duncan’s favourite Museo Cabañas. She also recommends a visit to Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara, where there is a permanent exhibition of Orozco’s murals, and Ex Convento del Carmen, notable for its colonial architecture integrated with contemporary art exhibits.

Discover hidden studios of emerging and established artists, such as Galería La Extensión, a large industrial space which hosts live music, workshops, art classes and an on-site tattoo artist. In between gallery-hopping, Duncan stops in neighbourhood cafés or at the craft brewery Cerveza Loba.

“Bruna and Octo are hands-down my top recommendations for a special dinner out,” she says, explaining that the first restaurant is seafood-focused and the latter centres on meat. Both feature the work of local artists on their walls. “They have the same owners and are next door to each other,” she says.

Duncan adds that Piggy Back is the best spot for breakfast and El Corcho is a perfect choice for a wine bar, more casual and unpretentious than most, with the owner’s mom making the fantastic food.

What to eat: Torta ahogada, a “drowned” sandwich, stuffed with shredded pork and covered with a spicy tomato and chile de árbol sauce. Try it at Tortas Toño.

Where to stay: Gala, a boutique hotel with a lovely pool in the Colonia Americana neighbourhood. The buzzy area was ranked the coolest neighbourhood in the world by TimeOut magazine in 2022. Nearby is the more modest Hotel Isabel, on a quiet side street with a courtyard and garden.

Puebla

Arrive by car in three hours from Mexico City.

Your insider: Aleyn Merchand, a full-time teacher in the area and part-time local food guide

Located inland and southeast of Mexico City, Puebla is often referred to as the “stomach of Mexico” because of its culinary history. It is the birthplace of foods such as mole poblano, a complex, sweet and spicy sauce usually served with chicken or turkey. Another celebrated dish is chiles en nogada, consisting of stuffed poblano peppers topped with a walnut cream sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds; the recipe is often considered the national dish of Mexico.

“It is a quaint low-key version of Mexico City,” says Merchand, who was born in Puebla, raised in Chicago and then moved back in her teens.

“Puebla is a very food-oriented city and a bit snobby about food,” she confesses. “It doesn’t have to be high-end food, but high-quality. In every family there will be someone who is a really good home cook, so when we go out to eat, it has to be exceptional.”

She recommends La Silla, a restaurant that started out as a steak house but has since expanded into Mexican and Poblano foods. “In the fall, they serve mole de caderas, a culturally important seasonal dish made with goat meat, chilies and tomatoes.”

Merchand likes La Fonda for a breakfast of enchiladas suizas, and recommends San Pedrito Licorería for an end of day cocktail. “The decor is very Frida Kahlo,” she says, adding that the rooftop bar looks out onto the Catedral de Puebla.

But beware, Merchant warns: “Mexican food portions are generous. It is smart to order dishes to share and that is quite acceptable here. Eating en centro, sharing dishes in the middle of the table, is a local habit.”

Aside from the food, Puebla is also famous as a centre for traditional Talavera pottery and its historic old-town centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Talavera pottery has been made in the city since the mid-16th century and many of the public buildings and cathedrals are resplendent with Talavera tiles. An authentic piece of pottery makes an excellent souvenir, but it is also an investment, notes Merchand. Certified pieces are expensive and can be purchased in a small number of pottery shops, including Talavera Armando or Uriarte Talavera.

If you want decorative Talavera, you can buy inexpensive pieces in many shops, but check that it is lead-free if you intend to use the piece to serve food.

To learn about pottery and pre-Hispanic history, Merchand recommends visiting Museo Amparo. “Skip the modern art section,” she says. “It’s lovely, of course, but if you are interested in Puebla history, go directly to the pre-Hispanic area where you will see many beautiful pieces of Talavera, as well as a recreation of a traditional Talavera kitchen.”

You can also follow a network of tunnels that will take you up to a military fort, now the Museo del Fuerte de Guadalupe. “This is where our famous battle of Cinco de Mayo happened, when we defeated the French army,” she says.

Visit the Barrio del Artista, an area in the historic centre where local artists show and sell their work. A weekend street market famous for antiques and souvenirs takes place on Callejon de los Sapos, or Alley of the Frogs, and has great bargains.

“One thing I would recommend that visitors rarely do is to watch a game – soccer or football – in one of the local sports bars,” Merchand says. “We get very expressive and vocal and you will quickly become part of the group.”

What to eat: Chalupas, which are tiny tortillas that are deep-fried and smothered with green and red salsa, shredded beef and onion.

Where to stay: Hotel Colonial is a moderately priced place to stay, situated in the historic heart of the city. The hotel restaurant is famous for its mole poblano.

Mexico City

Arrive by air from major airports in Canada with direct flights from Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver, and seasonal direct flights from Halifax and Calgary.

Your insider: Clara Hernandez, a chef, food writer and tour guide for Eat Mexico

“I was born in the very small town of Tlaxcala and came to Mexico City when I was 17 to study,” says Hernandez. “I fell in love with the place.” She has lived here for 21 years and is besotted as ever with the charms of this large and diverse city.

Contrary to some perceptions, Hernandez says Mexico City is a safe destination. Stick to tourist-friendly neighbourhoods such as Roma Norte, La Condesa or Coyoacán. Centro Histórico houses architectural must-sees like the 16th-century Metropolitan Cathedral. “As you would in New York or any big city, you need to be careful and be aware,” she cautions. “Don’t take a cab from the street. Ubers are amazing and inexpensive here. If you are on a subway or in a crowd, be careful of your cellphone and your wallet.”

Booking a tour is one of the best and safest ways to explore the city, adds Hernandez. Eat Mexico guides can introduce you to street food, explain the local dishes and ingredients and share the history behind the culinary culture while touring markets. “If you want to visit La Merced market, which is gigantic and spread over a number of buildings, you really need a guide,” she says.

One of Hernandez’s favourite spots to dine is Barbacoa el Hidalguense in the trendy Roma Sur neighbourhood. “It is only open on the weekends but the food is so good. The tacos are stuffed with juicy meat cooked over a wood fire and topped with fresh salsas. They also serve pulque, a pre-Hispanic drink made from agave.”

From the art-nouveau elegance of the Palacio de Bellas Artes to the austerity of the former residence of Pritzker Prize winner and architect Luis Barragán, Hernandez says the city is a visual feast where ancient ruins live next to modern architecture.

Mexico City is also home to more than 150 museums. Hernandez now lives in the Coyoacán neighbourhood, close to the Blue House, better known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. “When I first moved here, the museum was not busy and the staff just casually invited me in. Now it is very popular and I recommend that you book online well in advance,” she says.

In the same neighbourhood, Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares is also on her must-see list. It’s not as crowded and explores Indigenous and urban cultures from all around the country. Entry only costs 21 pesos (about $1.50) and admission is free on Sundays.

History buffs should explore the Xochimilco area to tour the Chinampas islands, which were developed by early Mesoamerican civilizations and are now used by farmers. Board a boat called a trajinera, which takes visitors through the canals while they nosh on local food and listen to live music.

What to eat: Suadero taco, a popular Mexico City street food filled with slow-cooked beef and topped with diced white onion, cilantro, salsa and a squeeze of lime.

Stay at: Downtown Mexico is a moderately priced hotel perfectly situated in the Centro Historico neighbourhood, close to museums and the city’s main sights.

Riviera Nayarit

Arrive by car in a roughly one-hour drive from Puerto Vallarta, or by an hour-and-a-half regional flight from Mexico City to the Nayarit capital of Tepic.

Your Insider: Hardy Ortiz, local bar manager and mixologist

Riviera Nayarit comprises about 320 kilometres of Pacific coastline, along which visitors can find uber-luxurious resorts in the Gold Coast area, such as the St. Regis, Four Seasons and Dreams, or rustic charm in fishing villages further north, including San Blas Islands and Guayabitos.

Visitors can find all sorts of adventures here, Ortiz says, including the chance to watch olive ridley turtle releases, where hatchlings are provided a safe passage to the ocean. (This sea turtle can live up to 50 years and is considered endangered.)

Ortiz also enjoys hiking in the nearby Sierra Madre Occidental range and swimming in the region’s beaches. Monkey Mountain is one of his regular hikes, with the reward of fabulous views from the top. “My favourite beach is Playa Careyeros with its white powder sand, clear water and no vendors,” he says. Ortiz recommends Los Muertos Beach, also known as Cemetery Beach because the path that leads to it winds through a cemetery; the walk is chilling but charming.

Ortiz runs the rooftop Bar del Patrón in the Sayulinda Hotel, which was nominated for Mexico’s best hotel bar in the 2025 Shaker Awards, and is a good place to watch the sunset. “I serve the perfect cocktail,” he boasts. “The Tropical Sunset – made with peach and basil cordial, St-Germain elderflower cordial and a local raicilla.”

Ortiz also recommends Kahlo Restuarant on Avenida Revolución, or Mary’s Traditional Mexican Cuisine for fish tacos. When it comes to street food, Tacos Al Pastor Diaz near Sayulita’s main square is his go-to.

Venture away from the coast and you will find some of Mexico’s delightful small towns, often called “Pueblos Mágicos” by the tourism board. Places such as Jala, Ahuacatlán, Mexcaltitán and Compostela are deemed magical because of their cultural richness, architectural beauty or historical importance.

Mexico’s ‘Pueblo Magicos’ are a richly rewarding cultural experience

What to eat: Pescado zarandeado, a whole butterflied fish marinated in chilies, garlic, lime juice and achiote, before being barbecued on a grill. Best place to try it is at El Costeño.

Where to stay: Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit is a five-star Mexican-owned resort on the northern edge of Banderas Bay, or you could stay at the moderately priced Sayulinda Hotel.