Blink and you might miss it. Nanoose Bay is a true hidden gem in B.C. that perfectly encapsulates the “island life.” Tucked between Nanaimo and the Parksville Qualicum Beach area, the small but vibrant community strikes the perfect balance between relaxation and adventure.
During my stay, I got to disconnect from the city for a couple of days and reconnect with all I had been missing: the trees, the water, friendly faces at the cafe, and farm-fresh cheese. I definitely spent ample time connecting with the latter.
Named after a First Nations band related to the Nanaimo First Nation (also known as the Snaw-Na-Was First Nation), Nanoose has two possible meanings, according to local theories: “a collection of families at one place” or “pushing inward,” referring to the shape of Nanoose Harbour.
Whether it’s your first time visiting or your 100th, it’s easy to see why so many individuals and families are drawn to this tiny slice of heaven. While the large majority of ferry travellers from Vancouver may be tempted to head to the famed beaches of the South Island or wander the historic streets of downtown Victoria, it’s Nanoose Bay’s unassuming natural beauty that makes it feel like a magical nook that only you know about.
Scenic regional parks
Ready to start dreaming up your perfect day in nature? There’s no place better to start than the beautiful Beachcomber and Moorecroft Regional Parks. The former is a one-hectare oceanside park situated at the end of the Beachcomber Peninsula, offering sweeping views across Craig Bay to Parksville and Mount Arrowsmith, and north across the Strait of Georgia to the mainland coastal mountains.
At low tide, its tide pools are teeming with fascinating marine life, including crabs, starfish, sea cucumbers, and even sea lions, if you play your cards right.
Moorecroft Regional Park also boasts picturesque views from any direction, whether it’s of the surrounding Garry Oak meadows, towering Douglas-Firs, or the nearby Gulf Islands. During my visit, I found myself “oohing and aahing” around practically every rocky corner, with the water glistening in the morning sun.
Diving site
Before heading to its long, expansive beach, I arrived at the adjacent Es-hw Sme~nts Community Park, which sports a popular shore diving site. While I couldn’t spend too much time traversing the tide pools during high tide, local scuba diving resource guide ScubaBC has a Tide Table revealing the best times of day to explore the area. They also outline common intertidal species you’re most likely to meet during your visit.
According to Parksville Qualicum Beach Tourism, divers of all levels can enjoy this site, as the water’s depth can range from fairly shallow to over 180 ft (54 m) deep.
“There is the occasional octopus to be found, and lots of small creatures in the shallows, but we have found the biggest draw here is the chance of a sea lion encounter,” they say on their website. “Sometimes there are even four or six of these large mammals at a time!”
Want to appreciate even more stunning wildlife? The nearby North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre cares for an array of wildlife (eagles, black bears, owls, ravens, and more) before they’re released back into the wild.
Fairwinds by Seacliff Properties
I was lucky enough to be among the first to stay at one of Seacliff’s new one-bedroom vacation rentals at Fairwinds Residences (formerly the Schooner Cove Hotel), which aced the “home away from home” feel.
Complete with a full kitchen, floor-to-ceiling windows, in-unit washer and dryer, and an outdoor patio and fire pit, it was like Fairwinds reached into my brain and picked out exactly what I was craving. Coming from my overpriced box in the city sans dishwasher and laundry machines, I had almost forgotten that those were a thing.
A growing community
Situated in the Fairwinds master-planned community, the six new oceanfront rentals are just steps away from the newly completed marina in Schooner Cove and the Nanoose Bay Cafe. A little further down the road is the Fairwinds Golf Club, a year-round, 18-hole course that’s open to visitors of all kinds, in addition to Fairwinds guests.
Likewise, the Fairwinds Wellness Club is a great place to get your laps or steps in during a longer stay, with scheduled fitness classes (yoga, spin, tai chi, and more), racquet sports, two weight rooms, a 20-metre indoor pool, a hot tub, and a sauna. It’s also a great meeting spot at the heart of the Fairwinds community, if you’re looking to connect with new people in one of the common areas post-workout.
The new suites bring the Fairwinds community up to a total of 17 waterfront vacation rentals with hotel-like amenities. If you’re travelling in a larger group or staying with family, the new rentals come with “lock-off” capabilities, allowing guests to leave doors locked or unlocked between rooms. While my doors remained locked, it was easy to imagine a pair of siblings or cousins rushing between the rooms as their parents lounged on the private patio.
You don’t have to be a guest at Fairwinds to enjoy some of the best of B.C. at the Nanoose Bay Cafe, but boy, is it easy to go from bed to breakfast in less than 10 minutes. The family-run, locally-owned and sourced restaurant offers an airy space to enjoy an elevated, Asian-inspired bowl, seafood-forward plate, or an award-winning glass of vino.
The adjacent NBC Coffee Shop makes a mean tea latte and cappuccino, offering lighter, on-the-go breakfasts in addition to their locally roasted coffee.
They also make it easy to pick up a couple of goodies from fellow local businesses at their in-restaurant marketplace, which spans over 100 vendors and producers from all over the island.
Food and drink
When it comes to other local spots to enjoy during your stay, Rusted Rake is not only one of the highest-rated but also among the most homey. Equal parts farm and brewery, this local gem has amazing, full-flavoured sips and mouthwatering brisket, burgers, pork ribs, and bowls.
Their craft beers are brewed directly from barley grown on the farm. They range from a light, dry Mexican lager to dry-hopped tropical sours to a delightful coffee stout made with locally roasted French press coffee. Getting a flight was a no-brainer.
Canada’s first milk on tap
No trip to the area is complete without a visit to the nearby Little Qualicum Cheeseworks. Home to Canada’s first milk on tap, the family-run cheesemaking facility creates a new batch of fresh cheese every day. Visitors get the chance to meet the cows, horses, rabbits, and pigs that call the pastures home, and enjoy a sip of fresh, grass-fed whole milk — straight from the tap.
Needless to say, I left with no less than four different cheeses to indulge in (don’t worry, I had help). Pro-tip: Don’t forget a knife if you’re banking on an outdoor cheese feast. Otherwise, you’re going to have to get creative!
All in all, Nanoose Bay is a fantastic spot to slow down and smell the roses, appreciate the little things, and make some core memories. If you’ve always wondered what life is like on the North Island, consider this seaside gem an ideal snapshot.
How to get there: Take the ferry from Horseshoe Bay, West Vancouver, to Nanaimo. Drive 23 minutes to Nanoose Bay via BC-19 N.
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