These charred cabbage ribbons can be used for a variety of dishes | Canada Voices

First, there was the cauliflower boom, with its low-carb cauliflower rice and cauliflower pizza crusts, and cauliflower steaks. Then, Brussels sprouts sales jumped along with their popularity on restaurant menus, often coaxed into peak deliciousness in deep fryers. And then there’s kale – eternal star of winter salads and grain bowls.

Now, cabbage is the latest brassica vegetable getting its due, not only in ferments such as sauerkraut and kimchi, but roasted and charred, like its siblings.

With their slightly rubbery texture, brassica vegetables respond well to high temperatures, without the excessive moisture some veggies have that works against caramelization and the Maillard reaction, which promotes browning and creates more complex layers of flavour.

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A similar treatment can be achieved on the stovetop; allowing cabbage to come into contact with the direct heat of a skillet, assisted by the conductive properties of oil, allows for deep browning on its many edges. Adding a bit of water or stock to the pan and covering it helps cook the cabbage through – similar to cooking dumplings using a browning-steaming technique – and as it does, it separates into smooth, buttery ribbons.

There are a number of delicious things to do with charred cabbage ribbons. Treat them like pasta – tong them into a skillet of saucy ingredients, or onto a plate spread with whipped feta, goat cheese or ricotta, and toss to coat. Or leave the almost-intact cabbage slab in the skillet and pour beaten egg over and around it, into the gaps, for a quick cabbage and egg dish you can dress up any way you like. It’s phenomenal with chili crisp, hoisin, cilantro chutney or peanut sauce, and leftovers can be chopped and stirred into a batch of fried rice or peanut noodles.

Charred Cabbage and Eggs

How many people a cross-section of cabbage will serve depends on appetites; if you need more at once, cook two slabs simultaneously in separate pans, or if they aren’t destined to be finished with egg, brush them with oil and roast as many as you like on a parchment-lined sheet in a 425 F oven for 20 to 30 minutes, turning halfway.

• Canola, olive or other vegetable oil, for cooking
• 3/4- to 1-inch thick cross-section of green cabbage
• Salt, to taste
• 2-3 eggs
• Chili crisp, hoisin sauce, furikake, toasted sesame seeds or other condiments, for topping

Set a heavy-bottomed skillet (cast iron is ideal) over medium-high heat and add a generous drizzle of oil. Place the slab of cabbage in the skillet and cook, covered or uncovered, until it’s turning deep golden on the bottom.

Flip (this should still be easy to do with a wide spatula) and cook for a few minutes on the other side, until it’s starting to turn golden as well. Pour about 1/2 cup of water or stock into the pan, cover and let it steam for five to eight minutes, until the middle is tender and the cabbage is starting to fall into ribbons.

At this point, you could serve the cabbage ribbons in many ways – toss them with butter or pasta sauce, place them on a plate spread with whipped feta, goat cheese or ricotta, or carry on with the eggs.

Beat the eggs with a fork and about half a shell full of water. Pour the beaten egg over and around the cabbage, into the gaps where the ribbons are starting to separate. Sprinkle with salt if you think it needs it.

Turn the heat down to low, cover and cook until the egg is cooked through. Alternatively, transfer to a 350 F to 400 F oven for five to 10 minutes, or until the egg is cooked through. Serve topped with chili crisp, furikake or any other condiments you like.

Serves two.