This revamped Kingston hotel gets the big things right – especially its new spa | Canada Voices

On a slushy, grey January morning, the Belvedere Hotel just outside of Kingston’s downtown core is a welcome retreat. It feels more like an upscale bed and breakfast: Elegant marble floors and soaring ceilings are offset by cozy fireplaces, soft lighting and framed artwork. When I arrive, I half expect to be welcomed by a bubbly homeowner and an over-eager dog.

Just beyond the compact main lobby, a grand staircase leads to 19 updated rooms spread across three floors. But the hotel’s biggest crown jewel is invisible from the street or the lobby, and is decidedly beyond the offerings of a typical B&B: The hotel recently opened a thermal water spa on the lower level, making this a true getaway destination and a great spot for couples celebrating Valentine’s Day.

Why you should visit

Rooms at the Belvedere were recently redesigned for modern comforts that still keep the heritage of the property in mind. It was built in 1880 as a private residence. The name Belvedere derives from the Italian phrase meaning “beautiful view,” and was given by one of the house’s earliest owners. The name stuck.

My room on the second floor is large, opening up into a tiled foyer leading to the bathroom on one side and into a spacious, chandeliered bedroom and living space on the other. Plush dark green carpeting warms up the room, which is anchored by a king-size bed, a desk and matching wardrobe. A charming decorative fireplace is framed by two brass sconces to balance out the space.

A pair of Sandalyeci-designed chairs perched next to the tall windows are comfortable and stylish, inviting guests to sit back and dive into one of the books thoughtfully scattered throughout the room (Margaret Atwood’s Cat’s Eye, anyone?).

But it’s the newly opened Bathhouse spa in the hotel’s lowest level where guests can really relax. As I walk down the moodily lit staircase into the limestone and brick basement, the smell of essential oils and the low hum of new-age music greet me. I quickly change into my bathing suit and get down to business: First, a 15-minute lie-down in the sauna, followed by a shocking cold plunge. Next, I sink into the hot pool, where I chat quietly with a couple on vacation before I wander into one of the relaxation spaces for, well, even more relaxation.

In one area, I climb onto a bunkbed-like structure and nearly fall asleep to the sound of churning water; nearby, a closed-off lounge area is a spot for friends to sink into a seat and mingle. The experience is self-guided here, and guests are encouraged to take their time and repeat the circuit as much as they’d like. I end my session with a hot shower and salt scrub before floating back to my room.

A simple breakfast of pastries, fresh fruit and yogurt and granola is served daily in the sleek dining lounge on the main floor and is included in the stay. Later in the afternoon, the lounge serves drinks and small bites such as salads and crostini, but guests looking for a hot meal won’t find it here. (A wider menu is in the works as the hotel expands.)

Room for improvement

My visit in January coincided with freezing rain, high winds and plenty of slush. So when I arrived at the hotel, I had visions of sinking into a soaker tub and padding around the room in some plush slippers. Sadly, I found neither in my otherwise impeccable and spacious room. Likewise, I was surprised to learn the hotel didn’t have any emergency toothpaste stocked away for forgetful travellers like myself.

On a more practical note, more signage would go a long way in helping first-time visitors orient themselves. The front desk, for instance, is tucked away behind the staircase and looks like a coat-check window, causing a few moments of needless confusion when I first arrived. Similarly, you’d never know the spa even existed save for the faint scent of essential oils; a sign directing visitors to the basement stairwell would be a small but simple way to help guide guests.

Since you’re in the neighbourhood

The Belvedere is a 10-minute walk to a hub of restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. I enjoyed high tea at another historic property, the Secret Garden Inn, and later scooped up the best buttered shrimp I’ve ever tasted at the Black Dog Tavern on Brock Street. And at the buzzy Miss Bao Restaurant + Cocktail Bar, I slurped up a steaming bowl of noodles, light-as-air tofu bao bursting with flavour and an umami-packed mushroom pate.

Later that night, I went to see a movie at the indie theatre on Princess Street, a short walk away from the hotel. The packed crowd of cinephiles at the Screening Room reminded me of what I love about the movies, and not a single person whipped out their cellphone.

The take-away

The Belvedere gets the big things right and the new spa is a good reason to visit – but note: Spa fees are extra (a four-hour visit is $99, though overnight guests get a discount). Currently, all rooms at the Belvedere have only one bed (a few are outfitted with a pull-out couch), but more family-friendly expansion plans at the Carriage House just outside the main property are in the works for later this year.

The Belvedere Hotel, 141 King Street East, Kingston. Guests of the hotel can inquire about special offers for the Bathhouse. The spa is open to non-guests as well. The hotel is not wheelchair accessible. Rooms start at $319 a night. belvederehotel.ca

The writer was a guest of Tourism Kingston. It did not review or approve the story before publication.