Three perfect aperitif wines to enjoy this holiday season

Whether you opt to serve something bitter, bubbly or refreshing, a well-chosen aperitif can have a transformative effect especially during the merry mayhem of the holiday season.

Settling in for a pre-dinner drink ushers in a relaxed atmosphere that nurtures socializing and connecting over conversation. Here are three bottles that I’m enthusiastic about sharing with family and friends during this season of celebration. If they don’t happen to be available near you, consider them as placeholders for suitable styles of wines that awaken your senses and foster a convivial mood.

Black Hills Brut Sparkling (Canada), $51.99

Rating: 92

The citrus and toasty character of this well-made sparkling wine from British Columbia makes for an exciting Champagne stand-in. Impressively persistent, with a focused, zesty but friendly personality, this chardonnay and pinot noir blend was aged for 40 months with its yeast sediment to develop bready flavours that complement the pure and brisk lemony fruit flavours. A great aperitif style of bubbly, with potential to age. This has 12 per ABV and 5 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $45 direct, blackhillswinery.com, various prices in Alberta, $55 in Ontario.

Dopff Pinot Blanc 2022 (France), $17.95

Rating: 88

I’d welcome a greater selection of pinot blanc from Alsace in Canada, but these refreshing whites don’t pop up often. I suppose it’s easier for wine buyers to opt for gewurztraminer with its spicy and floral personality, however, those boisterous styles are often too over the top, too much of a good thing. Dopff’s classic label captures pinot blanc’s subtle but inviting character. The style is straightforward, offering some citrus and orchard fruit as part its balanced and persistent expression. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.

Emilio Lustau Vermut Blanco (Spain), $32.95

Rating: 94

A creative blend of Fino sherry and fragrant and sweet muscatel, this white vermouth gains added lift and complexity from herbs and botanicals, including wormwood, chamomile and rosemary. The finished product is sweet and aromatic, revealing herbal, nutty and marmalade flavours that carry to a lingering finish. To my taste, this is best served over ice with a lemon twist. It’s also appealing mixed with tonic water. This has 15 per cent ABV and 155 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.