What to Do in Milan During the Winter Olympics, According to the Host of PBS’ Dream of Italy

For many Olympic travelers, Milan will be home base—and PBS Dream of Italy hostKathy McCabe believes that’s exactly how the city should be experienced.

“Milan is Italy’s capital of fashion, design and business, but it also offers a delightful array of neighborhoods and culinary traditions,” she says. “Beyond the runways and showrooms, Milan is defined by aperitivo and cafe culture and a strong sense of everyday Italian city life that rewards travelers who linger.”

Rather than treating the city as a place to sleep between events, she encourages visitors to slow down and take part in the daily rituals. “This is a city where daily habits matter just as much as landmarks,” McCabe says.

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Where to Stay for an Easy First Day

McCabe will be staying at Casa Brivio, located in Porta Venezia, a neighborhood she consistently recommends for Olympic visitors. “It feels more like a refined Milanese apartment house than a traditional hotel,” she says. “Porta Venezia is ideal because it is well connected by metro, close to cafés, wine bars and shopping, and less hectic than the historic center.”

She also highlights NEMI Hotel Milan, one of the city’s newest design-driven openings. Set in a quiet residential area, the hotel offers “larger-than-average rooms” along with “strong soundproofing,” which McCabe notes can be especially valuable during a busy travel period like the Olympics. She also points to its restaurant, Forte, which “highlights fresh seafood,” and notes that the hotel is offering a special Olympic “Stay in the Game” package.

For travelers looking for a more traditional luxury experience, McCabe points to The Carlton Milan, which has just opened and marks the arrival of Rocco Forte Hotels in the city. Located in a grand historic building near the fashion district, the hotel brings “classic Italian elegance and contemporary comfort,” along with a full-service spa and refined dining. Travelers attending the Opening Ceremony at San Siro may also want to consider Milan Suite Hotel, which offers “large, modern rooms,” some with garden patios and convenient access to the stadium.

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What to Eat (and What Not to Expect)

“Milan was recently named the #2 food city in the world according to Taste Atlas,” McCabe says—but she is quick to clarify one important point. “It’s important to note that Milan is not a pasta city. It is the home of risotto.” The surrounding Po Valley produces much of Italy’s rice, which is why risotto alla Milanese has become the city’s defining dish. “Risotto alla Milanese is the city’s defining dish,” she says. “Made with saffron, it is traditionally served with ossobuco and best enjoyed slowly in a classic trattoria setting.”

For a nostalgic take, McCabe recommends Risoelatte. “The 1950s-style restaurant feels like dining in a retro Milanese home,” she says, noting that its risotto alla Milanese is a standout. For a more contemporary interpretation, she points to Ratanà, set in a former railway warehouse in the Isola Porta Nuova area, which serves one of the city’s most celebrated versions of the dish.

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Aperitivo, Cafés, and Everyday Milan

Aperitivo is essential to understanding the city. “This is a city where daily habits matter just as much as landmarks,” McCabe says, emphasizing that Campari-based drinks are deeply rooted in Milanese culture. “The Negroni Sbagliato was invented here,” she says, pointing visitors toward Bar Basso, a longtime local favorite.

For a more polished setting, she recommends Camparino in Galleria, located inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. As Campari’s historic bar, it pairs carefully crafted cocktails with elegant interiors and feels like a quintessential Milan moment. For coffee and pastries, Pasticceria Cova, founded in 1817, offers a glimpse of the city’s old-guard café culture. McCabe recommends ordering an espresso and a traditional pastry to experience Milan at its most refined. For something more modern, Pavé is a favorite for breakfast or a mid-morning break. It’s known for beautifully made pastries and a relaxed, neighborhood feel. “This is the kind of place where you linger rather than rush,” she says.

She also recommends Bar Luce, located inside Fondazione Prada. Designed by Wes Anderson, the café is a destination in itself, and the contemporary art museum is “well worth a visit.”

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Shopping and Neighborhoods That Feel Like Milan

When travelers ask where to experience Milan’s shopping scene, McCabe always points them toward neighborhoods rather than landmarks. “Rather than hopping from landmark to landmark, I always recommend choosing a neighborhood, settling in, and letting the city unfold,” she says. Porta Venezia is one of her favorites, noting that it feels lived-in and offers some of the city’s best vintage shopping. Bivio Milan is a standout for pre-owned fashion.

Navigli is another must-visit, especially for travelers interested in vintage shopping and aperitivo culture. The canal area is lined with small boutiques, secondhand fashion shops and casual spots for a drink, and it’s where Milan’s creative energy comes through most clearly. McCabe also recommends La Double J, founded by American designer JJ Martin, as a must-visit for colorful contemporary women’s fashion and homewares.

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One Experience Not to Skip

“In Milan, the one experience I always tell people not to skip is going up onto the Duomo di Milano terraces,” McCabe says. “Seeing the Duomo from the piazza is impressive, but being on the roof is something else entirely.” From the terraces, “you’re walking among the spires and statues, looking out over historic rooftops and modern towers at the same time.” For McCabe, it’s the experience that best captures the city. “It gives you a real sense of Milan as a city that honors its past while constantly evolving.”

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