Vineyards on the shores of Okanagan Lake at Quails’ Gate Winery in Kelowna, B.C. The winery’s 2022 flagship pinot noir is robust and generous, one of several wines perfect to usher in the fall season.Alla Gnidenko/Getty Images
The onset of September brings a push-pull between summer and fall. By-the-book types hold fast to the changing of the astronomical guard that comes with the autumn equinox, while blithe spirits fall forward after Labour Day.
I factor into the latter camp. September spells a new beginning; it’s a more significant turn of the calendar than December to January for me. Part of the thrill is the abundance of local produce on hand and the anticipation of the harvest in wine regions across the Northern Hemisphere.
Whether you’re rushing into fall or soaking up the sun, this week’s wine recommendations are well-suited to ending the season on a high note. There’s a handful of vibrant whites to savour and three distinctive red wines that wouldn’t be out of place at Thanksgiving, for anyone looking forward to a meal that perfectly reflects the changing seasons.
Camino del Puerto Rueda Verdejo 2024 (Spain), $13.75
Rating: 89
Wines from the Rueda region in Castilla y León have emerged as one of Spain’s most exciting offerings. As a result, the verdejo grape is becoming as popular as albarino, the grape responsible for the crisp and zesty wines from Rias Baixas. This affordable new release at LCBO outlets exhibits the pleasing fruity and herbal tang common to Rueda’s wines. The style is simple, fresh and balanced, which makes for a good all-around white wine to enjoy on its own or with a meal. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Dr. L Riesling 2023 (Germany), $17.95
Rating: 88
Winemaker Ernst Loosen is responsible for this benchmark model of Mosel Riesling. It’s a juicy and ripe expression of the grape with peach, pear and yellow apple fruit flavours balanced by bright acidity. The style is medium sweet but tastes drier than the numbers suggest. This has 8.5 per cent ABV and 41 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia and Prince Edward Island, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $18.43 in Manitoba, $18.15 in Quebec, $20 in New Brunswick, $19.80 in Nova Scotia, $20.99 in Newfoundland.
Labrusca Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosso Secco (Italy), $21.95
Rating: 89
This tank-fermented sparkling red wine from Emilia-Romagna offers bright cranberry/cherry and plum flavours as part of its ripe and juicy character. Made in a frothy, sweet-fruited but dry style, this is a terrific aperitif or food-friendly wine. A classic match for a charcuterie board, Lini’s deep-purple-coloured bubbly is also a stylish option for late season barbecues or pizza night. This has 10.5 per cent ABV and 9 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Mega Spileo Assyrtiko 2023 (Greece), $19.95
Rating: 88
The assyrtiko grape has become one of Greece’s most celebrated white varieties, expanding from its native Santorini to the Peloponnese peninsula and beyond. Other countries are embracing the variety for its ability to retain acidity in hot climates. This expressive example displays the grape’s distinctive stony and steely mineral-laced flavour with citrus and herbal notes rounding out its dry and focused character. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio 2024 (Italy), $14.95
Rating: 88
Mass-market pinot grigio used to be bland, insipid stuff that offered a whisper of pear fruit as part of its otherwise watery profile. If that’s still your impression, then prepare to be surprised by the depth and expression of Mezzacorona’s current release. A wash of floral and herbal aromas is enhanced by ruby grapefruit and ripe apple and pear flavours. The soft and approachable texture adds to the appeal. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 5 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $18.99 in Manitoba, $18 in New Brunswick, $16.82 in Nova Scotia, $17.99 in Prince Edward Island, $19.47 in Newfoundland.
Stag’s Hollow Renaissance Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $45
Rating: 91
Grapes from Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard in Okanagan Falls are used to blend the top pinot noir made by Stag’s Hollow in the 2022 vintage. A lighter colour and mix of earthy and ripe cherry and berry fruit aromas set the stage for a refined and juicy expression of pinot noir. A core of juicy red berry fruit makes for a charming red to bring to the dinner table. This has 12.9 per cent ABV and 1.9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, stagshallowwinery.com.
Terras Lusas White Regional 2024 (Portugal), $10
Rating: 87
Produced by the Adega de Redondo co-operative in Alentenjo, this harmonious white wine is a blend of local grapes, including arinto and roupeiro. The result is a balanced and complex wine suggesting a mix of citrus (lemon and grapefruit), almond and green (rosemary, green pepper) flavours. The mix of richness and refreshment combine for good value wine that’s a good all-season offering. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $10.40 in Quebec, $17.49 in Nova Scotia.
Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $59.99
Rating: 91
The 2022 vintage is being celebrated as the finest yet in the Okanagan, producing ripe and complex wines across the board. A warm fall saved a harvest that started off cool and wet. For Quails’ Gate’s flagship pinot noir, it set the stage for a robust and generous red wine, with herbal, tobacco and oak-derived dark chocolate and spice flavours layered over a core of dark fruit. This is a powerful model of pinot noir with significant tannins providing serious structure and grip at this early stage of development. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $60 direct, quailsgate.com, various prices in Alberta, $60 in Manitoba.
