Harry Styles and Zoe Kravitz are seen in March in New York City. People are drawn to oversized sunglasses because they’re genderless and work on a range of face shapes, says Bibi Borthwick, co-founder of eyewear brand Port Tanger.XNY/Star Max/Getty Images
Last winter, I was browsing the selection of glasses at Toronto optometrist L’Atelier when a pair of all-black, sculptural sunglasses caught my eye.
The Zarin frames by Port Tanger, a European, made-in-Japan eyewear brand founded in 2020, are made of thick acetate. They feature an oversized oval shape with rectangular lenses that wrap around the face like performance sunglasses.
Too wild, I thought. But whenever I found myself in the area, I stopped in to try them on. They grew on me with each visit. The curved design tempered their architectural boldness and framed my face well. Plus, the shielding lenses had a calming, cocooning effect, similar to noise-cancelling headphones. Wearing them erected a boundary between me and the rest of the world. (Could big sunglasses protect against unwanted small talk, I wondered?)
Shopping Guide: How to choose the right sunglasses (hint: look beyond just style)
I’m not alone. According to Halim Touidjine, L’Atelier’s managing director, shoppers are interested in styles that take up more facial surface area, especially those with light-tinted lenses, aviator shapes and 2000s-inspired rectangular frames, from brands such as Stockholm’s Oscar Magnuson and Port Tanger.
Finally, after a year of flirting, I bought the Zarin shades. They add the perfect dose of freakiness to an otherwise generic outfit. (Sadly, the style has since been discontinued).
Oversized and maximalist sunglasses are trending after a long reign of ‘90s-influenced frames that seemed to shrink with each new iteration. Luxury brands such as Balenciaga, Prada, Loewe and Gucci offer a range of styles, from riffs on retro aviators to big, bug-eyed frames. Tastemaker Rihanna was recently spotted wearing a pair of shield sunglasses by British designer Phoebe Philo. Bulky shades from independent brands such as Thistles – an eyewear line from New York available at Absolutely Fabrics and Grays in Toronto and One of a Few in Vancouver – are celebrity favourites. So, what’s the big idea behind big sunglasses?
Gambia sunglasses feature an inflated aviator frame.Gambia/Supplied
“Sunglasses are one of those rare accessories where people feel free to be more daring. They’re an investment, but also a form of self-expression,” said Bibi Borthwick, co-founder of Port Tanger.
“I love the idea that when you choose a frame, you’re also choosing the character you want to step into.”
Borthwick said customers are drawn to oversized styles like the bestselling Gambia, which features an inflated aviator frame, because they’re genderless and work on a range of face shapes. Ultimately, people want to make a fashion statement without a statement piece – meaning an accessory they can wear every day.
Toronto stylist Jaclyn Bonavota warned that not everyone can pull off what she called “face-encompassing aviator sunglasses,” though. While they can feel modern and add a sporty-futuristic edge to outfits, “the vibe can go Victoria Beckham circa early 2000s or The Real Housewives of Rhode Island very quickly.” As in: unwittingly garish and tacky.
Along with low-rise jeans, baby tees and chunky belts, shield sunglasses were a staple accessory of the Y2K aesthetic trending again two decades later. Gen Z has revived the style of the peak paparazzi era, when young Hollywood partied in West Hollywood and you could practically see them winking through their frameless, rose-tinted shades by Chanel, Miu Miu and Dior.
There are more versatile, sophisticated styles on the market today. It can just be a challenge to style them.
For inspiration, Bonavota looks to designer Phoebe Philo, who privileges eclecticism and experimentation over propriety. Bonavota suggested wearing an outfit that makes the frames the star while balancing “architectural simplicity and quiet sophistication for a look that’s severe yet restrained,” such as an oversized button-up with cargo pants.
When I wear my gigantic, kooky sunglasses with simple jeans and a T-shirt, a coy tension arises between the dual desires to grab and divert attention. The frames block everyone out while inviting their gaze. For me, that’s the fun of fashion.