Why my soul always leads me back to Rhodes, Greece | Canada Voices

Where does your soul truly reside? I often ask fellow travellers, and their answers – reflective, frequently emotional – usually reveal something deeper. Mine resides on Rhodes, the largest Dodecanese island in southeastern Greece. Long before I was born, it was already part of my story. My entire maternal side is from Rhodes, but like many Greek families in the 1960s, my mom left behind the familiarity of home and came to Canada in search of stability, and opportunity.

Even though I was born in Canada, the “old country” was never far from our lives. Mom worked hard and saved whatever she could to take me back to her island every few years – not simply for vacation, but so I could know my roots and experience the place that shaped our family. Those early trips left a lasting impression, and over time, I grew to appreciate Rhodes not just for its history and natural beauty, but for the quiet, enduring connection I’ve always felt for it.

Rhodes has always offered a quieter allure than Santorini or Mykonos. The fourth-largest island in Greece, it blends stunning medieval grandeur with sun-drenched oases, without feeling overly congested. Because of its size and the way its sights are spread across the island, even in peak summer, crowds tend to disperse rather than concentrate in one place, unlike more compact, high-traffic hot spots. With a year-round population of just over 125,000, it still feels calm, even at its busiest.

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Steeped in history, Rhodes was once home to the Colossus of Rhodes, a massive (for its time) 33-metre bronze statue of the sun god Helios, built in 280 BC. Standing at the island’s harbour, it was considered of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. By 226 BC, a powerful earthquake toppled it, ending its brief but enduring legacy. Today, the UNESCO-listed medieval Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes dominates the skyline, offering an unforgettable first impression, especially for those arriving by sea.

Once dwellings and workshops, the palace’s historic spaces have transformed into vibrant shops, cafes, and modern apartments. Rhodes’ complex history of occupation and rule is long and stylistically layered. Byzantine foundations were followed by Ottoman additions, and Italian-era restoration sitting alongside Gothic architecture. Each power left their mark rather than starting from scratch.

And for me, that history isn’t just something to observe – it’s something I step back into whenever I visit. Wandering the Old Town is one of my favourite pastimes, and I always start at Hippocrates Square. Named after the famed Greek physician, it’s adorned by an iconic medieval fountain that’s been providing a natural meeting point throughout the ages. On Sokratous Street – the main commercial strip – I slip into Fournariko, a small bakery for a honey-soaked piece of portokalopita (orange cake), and a strong frappe. Listening to Zorba’s Dance hum from a nearby speaker makes me nostalgic for those days I’d walk these streets hand-in-hand with my mom – my original tour guide.

Energized, I embark on an afternoon of calorie burning. Minutes north of the bakery, I reach Ippoton, a street I’ve walked hundreds of times, and one that still manages to stop me in my tracks every time. I follow the 600-metre pedestrian-only, cobblestone path connecting the Knights’ Hospital to the Palace of the Grand Master – widely considered to be the longest and best preserved medieval street in Greece. From there, I like to continue beyond the Old Town walls, and step out to the five-kilometre dry moat that wraps around the imposing palace exterior. As evening approaches and crowds fade, local haunts keep the energy festive with live music and more food. I head to Epos Restaurant for seafood moussaka, dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and a few glasses of rakomelo, a warm, smooth digestif made with raki (distilled grape pomace), honey and cinnamon.

When I was a kid, my mom relied on public transit to get around the island. As I got older, renting a car became the obvious choice. I always made it a priority to drive friends and family around, especially along the island’s breathtaking east coast. Three kilometres south of Rhodes city centre along Highway 95, Rodini Park – one of the world’s oldest landscaped parks – is an ideal place to enjoy a coffee while watching free-roaming peacocks among lush gardens, and Hellenistic ruins. From there, I take the coastal route, driving 10 minutes south along Leoforos Kallitheas, before stopping at Kallithea Springs, known for its pebble mosaics, and a warm, sparkling bay. Continuing south, I rejoin Highway 95, and arrive about 15 minutes later at Anthony Quinn Bay, a calm, emerald-green cove. In the 1960s, it served as a filming location for The Guns of Navarone, and legend has it that Quinn (Zorba the Greek) loved it so much that he planned to buy the bay, and turn it into an artists’ retreat. Legal hurdles halted the purchase, but the name stuck.

Forty minutes south, and still along Highway 95, the picturesque village of Lindos is a must stop. While the urgency to explore this labyrinthine village is strong – particularly its pedestrian-only centre – I always make a point to slow down first. Just before the bend in the road that drops into the village, I pull over at the Lindos Viewpoint – a roadside lookout with panoramic views of the crescent-shaped bay, ancient settlement, and Mediterranean coast. It’s a view I remember seeing as a child – one that floods me with childhood memories, and never gets old.

With its 4th-century BCE clifftop acropolis, and golden sand beaches, navigating Lindos’ bougainvillea-lined alleys has always been a fun adventure. Whitewashed “Captains Houses” – merchant residences dating back to the 16th-century – dot the hillside, still lived in today by a community of roughly 1,000 residents. Alongside them, these historic homes have been repurposed into charming boutiques selling jewellery and locally made ceramics, not to mention cafes and restaurants that pair fortress views with delicious island flavours.

Take in the sunset from the comfort of your table at Arhontiko Restaurant, my family’s favourite spot for decades, where dinner is unhurried, shared and savoured. Hosts Dimitris and Flora Delidimitriou ensure an authentically local menu pouring Athiri – the island’s indigenous, fruity white wine – alongside such dishes as gemista (stuffed peppers), freshly caught grilled sea bream, and lamb stuffed with feta. Every meal here feels less like dining out, and more like coming home. Maybe that’s the reason I feel my soul reside here: Rhodes has never felt like somewhere I visit, but somewhere I feel compelled to return to.

If you go to Rhodes

Canadians can fly into Athens, and take a regional airline to Rhodes International Airport (Diagoras). Rhodes is also connected by ferry to Athens, Crete and nearby Dodecanese islands.

I suggest visiting April through June, in September or October when temperatures are pleasant and crowds are thinner. July and August bring higher prices and larger crowds (especially when cruise ships roll in).

For a truly elevated Rhodian stay, try the five-suite Porolithos Boutique Hotel. Located within the palace walls and built with tufa stone, it offers a refined, character-rich stay that combines traditional hospitality with modern amenities. In shoulder season, rates are around 250 euros per night. Rates vary based on season. porolithos.com

Special to The Globe and Mail