Why retinol remains a must-have in an anti-aging skincare routine | Canada Voices

Whether your concern is fine lines, loss of elasticity, dark spots or acne, the modern-day skin-care solution dates back to the 1930s Nobel Prize-winning work of Swiss chemist Paul Karrer. “Retinol is a multitasking, powerhouse ingredient,” says Dr. Renita Ahluwalia, a cosmetic and medical dermatologist, the co-founder of the Canadian Dermatology Centre Toronto and a lecturer at the University of Toronto. As a derivative of vitamin A (the compound structure that Karrer’s research established), retinol converts into retinoic acid when applied to the skin and plays a key role in skin health.

The most potent form, which can treat severe nodular acne and psoriasis among other conditions, is available by prescription only. However, over-the-counter formulas can be highly effective and well tolerated. “Stronger is not necessarily better,” says Aluwhalia.

“We do recommend it for most of our patients who are interested in an anti-aging skin-care routine that’s backed by science,” she says, and notes it’s not advised during pregnancy as a precaution because of links between oral retinoids and birth defects. “There are more studies to show retinol’s benefit in the skin than a lot of other ingredients out there.”

“Retinol is known to aid in collagen production, help reduce the look of wrinkles, minimize the appearance of large pores and boost radiance,” says Despina Daniilidis, the founder, CEO and lead aesthetician at PEAU’ésie, a skin spa in Montreal. “Essentially it does everything you’d want to help promote a healthy, bouncy skin barrier.”

Or, rather, it can – if you know how to use it properly. “Patience is kindness to our skin, especially when it comes to retinol. Many people fear using one because they’re scared of a ‘purge’ phase, though that is totally normal,” she says, referring to the temporary bout of mild irritation and dryness that can occur when adding the ingredient to your routine.

To minimize the impact of this adjustment period, start by applying a very small amount of product, and only once or twice a week at night to freshly cleansed, dry skin. “Try half a pea-sized amount, and work your way up to a full pea,” says Ahluwalia. “Avoid putting it right under the eye area, and make sure to moisturize afterward.”

Don’t use retinol on the same night as a product that contains an exfoliating active ingredient, such as salicylic or glycolic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Instead, choose a soothing night cream with complementary ingredients. “Peptides boost collagen production alongside retinol, and they’re not generally irritating, and niacinamide can strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation, which can make retinol easier to tolerate,” she says. If your skin is very sensitive or reactive, Ahluwalia suggests using a hyaluronic acid serum first, followed by retinol and a rich moisturizer or balm over top.

Look for opaque or tinted packaging, as retinol is sensitive to light and can degrade with exposure. It also boosts cell turnover in the skin, so the other big caveat here is sun care to protect your complexion from UV damage. “An ideal candidate is someone who can be consistent with their skin-care routine and wear SPF daily. Those factors are superkey when introducing retinol into your skin-care routine,” says Daniilidis. “But about a month into your journey, you’ll start to notice results and they’re worth it when done correctly.”

Six buys to try

Upgrade your nighttime skin-care routine with retinol, starting at $36

m, $135 through functionalab.com