But the real showstoppers came courtesy of sugar queen Christina Tosi’s All About Cookies — specifically her chocolate malted brownie cookies. Their not-so-secret ingredient was a half-cup of malted milk powder in the dough, plus a sparkly dusting on top. One batch in, I was enthralled with how this unassuming powder transformed the flavor of the dense, brownie-like cookies with a mysterious tang and deep note of umami.
After that initial batch, I used the rest of my malted milk in chocolate chip cookies, German almond crescents, and shortbread. The result? A consistent warm, toasty richness that elevated even the simplest butter cookies to “what’s IN this?” territory.
I hadn’t baked with malted milk powder before, so I looked into why it works. Not to be confused with powdered milk or straight malt powder, malted milk powder is made from dried (malted) barley, wheat flour, and evaporated milk powder. It was originally developed in the 1880s as an infant nutritional supplement and over time became a staple of soda counters and Halloween candy. Today, brands like Carnation also include baking soda, which gives baked goods a touch of extra leavening.
Malted milk powder works well in baking because it adds an elusive je ne sais quoi — a caramelized, nutty depth of flavor that balances sugar with umami. It also enhances browning, since the milk sugars caramelize beautifully — but remember to keep an eye on the oven and be prepared to pull your treats a minute or two early to avoid excessive browning. The powder is made from wheat but doesn’t act like gluten-forming flour in baked goods. Instead, it lends itself to a more tender and soft texture. I recommend starting small — 2 to 4 tablespoons per batch is the sweet spot for most recipes. Remember it contains sodium, so dial back the salt in your recipe if necessary. And for chocolate treats, try chocolate-flavored Ovaltine for an extra nostalgic hit.
Since I made that initial pre-wedding discovery, I’ve kept a container of Carnation in my pantry for everything from quick breads and brownies to nutty biscotti and even sandwich bread. It’s my inexpensive pantry hero that keeps people guessing — and reaching for seconds.
