A food and wine enthusiast’s guide to the Western cape of South Africa | Canada Voices

Although South Africa ranks as the eighth-largest wine producer in the world, based on 2024 harvest figures, its wine scene is seriously underrated.

The popularity of cheap labels like Two Oceans and Tall Horse overshadow the stunning array of exceptional regional wines made from cabernet sauvignon, syrah and pinotage as well as chenin blanc, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc to explore.

While Napa, Sonoma and Tuscany remain popular for food and wine lovers, the vibrant culinary scene and terroir, especially the bounty in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, makes the cross-Atlantic trip worth the effort. Flights are longer and more expensive than a trip to California or Italy, but when you land, you can find stylish stays starting at around 5,000 South African rand ($429) and tastings starting at R105 ($9.02). (At the time of writing, $1 equals R11.64.)

While you could plan day trips from Cape Town, establishing a base in wine country cuts out the 45-minute-to-an-hour commute time each way, allowing you to fully immerse yourself. South Africa’s wine country is best explored slowly. Make time for four or five days, beginning in Stellenbosch, to allow you to enjoy gourmet dining and experience the region without rushing.

This family-owned South African winery takes pride in serving patrons at their vineyard

South Africa’s second oldest town, Stellenbosch was founded in 1685 by the then-governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel. The region’s fertile land attracted farmers to the region, which became a significant agricultural settlement known for its wines. The Stellenbosch Wine Route was established in 1971, boosting its prominence for wine tourism and marketing.

A walk along the oak-lined Dorp Street, formerly the primary wagon route to Cape Town, is a chance to admire the historic rows of 18th- and 19th-century buildings. Let your wanders take you to Oom Samie se Winkel, a general store offering an eclectic mixture of goods including antiques and South African spices and teas, and De Warenmarkt, a bustling wine bar, deli and restaurant where locals gather for a quick bite or more leisurely meal.

The Oude Werf, a charming luxury hotel, puts you steps away from shops, galleries and restaurants, but a stay on a wine farm (the local term for vineyard or wine estate) allows the opportunity to connect with nature.

The newly renovated Spier Wine Farm is only a 10-minute drive from the centre of Stellenbosch.

The hotel’s transformation reduced the number of rooms from 155 to 80 to reflect a changing philosophy. Rather than continuing to cater to conference and large groups, during the pandemic, the family-owned estate re-focused to attract families and wine lovers seeking authentic and engaging experiences.

The transformation honours the heritage of the site while creating more outdoor living spaces to take advantage of the vineyard views, such as a new rooftop bar and ground-floor rooms that open onto gardens of indigenous flora, particularly fynbos shrubs like proteas and succulents.

The 620-hectare property is based on a village-style layout along the Eerste River, blending Cape Dutch heritage buildings and contemporary designed spaces that highlight an estimated 3,000 pieces from the Spier Arts Trust’s collection of South African art on display.

Walking trails and Segway vineyard excursions allow you soak in the setting. The spa uses botanicals from the farm for its treatments, while cows, pigs and chickens on the property contribute to the farm-to-table menus featured at Spier’s various restaurants and eateries. Not to be overlooked, Spier’s wine portfolio is enjoyable from top to bottom, especially the impressive 21 Gables and Creative Block labels.

Anyone looking to tap into the beating heart of chenin blanc, one of South Africa’s signature white-wine varieties, must visit Ken Forrester Wines on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain. Starting from a humble first vintage of 400 cases in 1994, Forrester’s dynamic approach to winemaking and marketing earned him the nickname Mr. Chenin.

South African winemakers working to remake the once-maligned pinotage

Forrester’s team makes a fruity and refreshing sparkling chenin as well as various rich and refreshing still expressions that show real class and personality in the glass. Red-wine lovers won’t go wanting, thanks to stylish red blends and a juicy pinotage that’s a great match with the variety of meats and sides you’ll find at a local braai (barbecue cooked over wood or charcoal).

Don’t miss the opportunity to savour juicy boerie, the traditional spiced sausage formally known as boerewors, smoky, crispy and gooey braaibroodjies (toasted bread with tomato, onion and cheese) or light and fluffy pampoenpoffertjies (pumpkin fritters dusted with cinnamon and sugar), which rank as one of the country’s classic comfort foods.

The latest addition to Forrester’s farm is a collection of sculptures by South African artists, ranging from up-and-coming talents to established international names, including Janko de Beer, Riaan van Zyl and Nanette Ranger. Works are displayed around the grounds, with pieces situated amid the chenin-blanc bush vines in the FMC vineyard, which is the source and namesake of Forrester’s most celebrated white wine.

Another Stellenbosch visionary is Johan Reyneke, South Africa’s pioneer of organic and biodynamic winemaking who helped create Organic Wines South Africa to encourage growth of environmentally friendly farming methods.

Located in the Polkadraai Hills, Reyneke grows sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, syrah, cabernet franc and cabernet to produce distinctive and engaging wines. The tasting room is small and specializes in personal, focused tastings, so reservations are strongly recommended.

Further inland, Franschhoek is home to a smaller but equally exciting wine region hugged by the Groot Drakenstein, Franschhoek and Simonsberg mountains. The town’s central street is known for its Michelin-starred restaurants, art galleries and upscale shops designed to appeal to gourmet travellers.

Three minutes’ drive from main street, Leeu Estates plays to the region’s overarching luxury theme, with its 24-room boutique hotel, tasting room, restaurant and spa, all set within gardens and 78 hectares of vineyards.

The site is home to Leeu Passant winery, a collaboration launched in 2015 between the talented winemaking team Andrea and Chris Mullineux and Indian entrepreneur Analjit Singh, owner of the international hospitality group, Leeu Collection.

The Mullineuxs got their start in Swartland, a warmer wine-producing region an hour north of Cape Town, producing exemplary syrahs and chenin blancs from old vineyards.

The couple’s Franschhoek wine range features meticulously crafted chardonnays and cabernet-based blends from local vineyards as well as vines in Stellenbosch, Wellington and other regions. These are some of South Africa’s most expensive wines, with a Stellenbosch chardonnay selling for R915 ($78.60) and the flagship red wine priced at R1,150 ($98.79), a fraction of the price of collectable bottles produced in the United States, France or Italy.

A trip to Franschhoek wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Boekenhoutskloof, one of the region’s pioneering estates.

Established in 1994, at the end of apartheid, by a group including managing partner and winemaker Marc Kent, the label elevated the international stature of South African syrah thanks to the quality of its 100-per-cent syrah and the hugely popular syrah-based red blend, The Chocolate Block.

Special 90-minute tastings are held Tuesdays and Thursdays at the communal table in the tasting room by one of the winemaking team. Don’t leave without tasting the rich and racy semillon, consistently one of the country’s best white wines, or the honeyed and sumptuous Noble Late Harvest Semillon, made from vines in front of the winery.

Like many of South Africa’s premium wines you’ll encounter on your travels, these are unexpected, authentic and undeniably delicious.

The writer was a guest of Wines of South Africa, which did not review or approve this article. The Globe does not guarantee coverage.