A new Niagara-on-the-Lake pinot noir makes a grand entrance | Canada Voices

Vittorio De Stefano, owner of On Seven winery, has waited 17 years to release the first pinot noir from the Niagara-on-the-Lake farm that he and his wife Sula bought in 2009. Working with winemaking consultant Peter Gamble, the couple studied the seven-acre property’s soil structure to determine which specific clone and rootstock combinations of chardonnay and pinot noir from Burgundy would produce the best possible wine.

The search for the ideal vines from respected nurseries in France took longer than expected. “The thinking was, let’s do this once, let’s do this properly,” De Stefano said.

The existing grapevines were removed to allow On Seven, which takes its name from the size of the estate, to build from the ground up. The five-acre vineyard is certified organic, and an adjacent eight-acre property has been purchased for future grape cultivation.

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Clone 76 chardonnay vines were planted 2014, with clone 95 plants added in 2015 and clone 96 in 2018. Those early plantings meant On Seven was able to produce its first commercial release of chardonnay in 2017.

The first pinot noir vines (clone 115) went into the ground in 2017, with an additional planting of two additional clones (777 and 828) in 2019.

Each clonal variation was intentionally selected, De Stefano explained. One of the first official French pinot noir clones available from nurseries, 115 is noted for pinot noirs with balance and elegant character, he said, while 777 yields riper wines with more tannic structure. Clone 828, which is the most recently certified, in 1985, results in more aromatic red wines with fine tannins.

“We had a vision of what type of wine we would get as a result of the characteristics of the clonal and rootstock selection we ordered,” he said.

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That vision becomes a reality with the Sept. 13 online launch of On Seven’s first commercial release of pinot noir from 2023. (A pinot noir rosé was produced in 2021. The 2022 crop was lost to winter frost.)

The wet growing season in 2023 meant that On Seven had to reduce the crop to allow the remaining grape clusters to ripen and stay free from mildew and other fungal diseases that would have reduced the quality of the fruit. The total production for the vintage was 71 cases of pinot noir and 86 cases of chardonnay. Pinot noirs and chardonnay made by On Seven 2024 and 2025 are aging in barrel, awaiting bottling for future release.

On Seven is open by appointment and sells its wine online, at onsevenwinery.ca. Its two 2023 releases are reviewed here along with a rare pinot blanc from another family-owned Niagara-on-the-Lake boutique winery that operates without a tasting room.

Kirby Estate Pinot Blanc 2023 (Canada), $35

Rating: 92

Scott and Maria Kirby operate a boutique winery from an 11-acre property on the lakeshore of Niagara-on-the-Lake. The site is home to five different grape varieties, including gamay noir, merlot and chardonnay. The concentrated and satisfying white wine made with grapes from 27-year-old pinot blanc vines is a great introduction to the Kirby’s operation, which is supported by winemaker Matt Smith and consultants Adam Lowy and Peter Gamble. The barrel-fermented character suggests a mix of citrus, peach and pear with toast and spice notes. It’s a style that’s best enjoyed over the coming few years. This has 13-per-cent ABV. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price direct, kirbyestate.com

On Seven The Pursuit Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $48

Rating: 94

This alluring single vineyard chardonnay from Niagara-on-the-Lake has a rich, concentrated character that carries through to a fresh, savoury finish. Its flavour is a mix of ripe and honeyed peach and yellow apple, which combine with a rich, rounded texture for a harmonious white wine that’s hard to resist. There’s impressive richness for a wine with such vibrant acidity. This is ready to drink but promises to mature gracefully. This has 13.4-per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price direct, onsevenwinery.ca

On Seven The Pursuit Pinot Noir 2023 (Canada), $55

Rating: 95

On Seven makes a profound first impression with its inaugural pinot noir release. The small batch, estate bottled red wine shows concentrated ripe berry fruit flavours with complex floral, spice and meaty notes. Its style is refreshing and pure, with a silky texture and lengthy finish. This is remarkably complete and easy to drink at this early stage of development. It slides across the palate. This has 21.7-per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available at the above price direct, onsevenwinery.ca