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A reader asks: I have a friend who is sensitive to the acidity in white wine and prefers chardonnay, can you suggest any she should look out for?
Your friend’s taste has led them in the right direction. Certain grape varieties, notably chenin blanc, riesling and sauvignon blanc, naturally produce wines with a higher content. The acidity of these wines is even more pronounced when the grapes are grown in cooler climates.
Chardonnay grapes have low to medium acidity levels. The style of wine produced from them depends on the climate in which they are grown and the winemaking methods used. Wines with lower acidity and a softer, rounder character can be produced in warmer climates, such as California, Australia and South Africa.
She would prefer styles of chardonnay that undergo malolactic conversion, a process (whose name is often shortened to ‘malo’) changes the wine’s tart and sour malic acid into rich, creamy lactic acid. This process usually occurs while the wine is aging in oak barrels.
Aging in barrels with the leftover yeast particles from fermentation also softens the acidity in the finished wine. As the yeast cells break down in the wine, they release protein compounds that add body and texture that balance the sharp sensation of the acidity.
The use of oak barrels, malolactic fermentation and lees aging is a stylistic choice adopted by many winemakers, who have taken inspiration from the methods used by winemakers in Burgundy, the French region that created the worldwide demand for chardonnay wines.
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In Australia, there has been a move away from malolactic conversion to produce leaner and more refreshing wines. I would advise your friend to avoid premium wines from cooler regions such as Tasmania, Yarra Valley, Eden Valley, Adelaide Hills and Margaret River. More affordable Australian brands, such as Smoky Bay Buttery Chardonnay or Wolf Blass Yellow Label, are better options.
Inexpensive Chilean chardonnays made by Cono Sur, Santa Carolina and Santa Rita are also safe bets. From South Africa, look out for labels from Boschendal, Fleur du Cap and Spier.
Canadian chardonnays are typically refreshing, but some tasters may find them too acidic. Riper styles are made by Cave Spring, Henry of Pelham and Hidden Bench in Ontario and Burrowing Owl, Fort Berens and Little Engine in the British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.
Many producers have stopped labelling their chardonnays as barrel-aged or barrel-fermented, which could be useful in this instance, in order to avoid the stigma associated with the heavily oaked chardonnays produced in the 1990s and 2000s. While some wineries may include this information alongside other winemaking specifics on the back label, your friend would be better off looking for words such as rich or creamy rather than crisp or citrussy to identify styles that suit her preference.
As well as chardonnay, I would suggest your friend tries wines made from marsanne, roussanne and viognier grapes, or blends of these varieties. Native to the Rhône Valley, these typically produce full-bodied, richly flavoured, low-acid wines. The affordable Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2025 and slightly more expensive E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2024 are good starting points.
