I’ve noticed something bright and comforting, even in the moodiest of dining rooms across the country: real candles, and lots of them. After a long reign of battery-powered faux candles for safety and convenience, some restaurants are back to scattering demure tea candles in votives across their tables, and a number have leaned into an even more dramatic choice: long and elegant tapered candles that gently flicker and dramatically drip wax as your meal progresses. They instantly help create a romantic, dramatic vibe, one that serves as a reminder that eating out can and should feel like a special and celebratory event.
At Berenjak’s new Los Angeles location, on nearly every table and free surface — in between plates of lamb koobideh and saffron rice — stands a thick, white tapered candle. The candles help give the sprawling, dimly lit restaurant space a tangible sense of intimacy. You’ll find a similar strategy across the city at Cento Raw Bar, where the smokeless tapers that dot the space help make the beautiful cavernous restaurant, with its white stucco walls, feel cozy. The effect was so stunning that, after meals at both restaurants, I felt inspired to immediately purchase tapered candles for my own dining table.
It’s not just white tapered candles that are finding a resurgence at restaurants. At Borgo, Andrew Tarlow’s chic take on a neighborhood trattoria in New York City, the tablecloth-draped tables are also assigned a sleek, deep-yellow tapered candle to create even more warmth. And at La’ Shukran in Washington, DC, pink tapered candles help illuminate the playful and colorful interior.
In a modern world addicted to convenience and shortcuts, it’s heartening to see so many restaurants commit to real candles, given just how much work and attention they require. Candles will often go out or even need to be replaced mid-meal depending on the rate at which they’re melting. New York Times food critic Tejal Rao says that she has experienced multiple meals where the staff has “changed the candles out three times,” which speaks to the enhanced level of service they require. A server at a restaurant in LA revealed to me that it basically becomes one person’s job on staff to look after the candles, making sure to re-light and replace them as needed, and that it was not uncommon for the restaurant to go through upwards of 300 candles a night.
It is important to know that certain tapered candles work better in restaurant and dining settings. If you’re hoping to add them to your own dinner table, look for candles made from beeswax or soy — they melt cleaner than other types of wax and do not produce any soot. (Restaurants that go through many candles are also increasing the frequency with which they have to replace their air filters.) Additionally, opt for candles that are not scented to avoid impacting the taste of your food (and because they have fewer health risks).
Here are some of the best tapered candles and holders, so that you can recreate these cozy, romantic vibes at home.
These classic tapered candles are high-quality, made from an unscented beeswax blend, and available in classic white, ivory, and a variety of chic muted colors.
These 100% pure-beeswax candles have a gentle honey scent to them as they burn, but it will not clash with most food. They are also available in multiple colors to suit every style of decor.
Don’t be afraid to lean into colored tapered candles! It creates big visual impact to have several in one color, or mix and match for a more eclectic rainbow effect. Made with a dripless beeswax blend, these candles from Hawkins New York are, of course, unscented and have a 10.5-hour burn time.
It’s worth getting a set of holders that display candles at every height to add some extra drama to your dining table. The look is enhanced over time when paired with the drippiest candles, where the wax can collect into epic formations.
Speaking of drama, let’s bring back candelabras. They are the elegant and most fun way to display your taper candles for maximum impact. This one has a classic aesthetic and will make a dinner party feel extra celebratory.
