Chef Massimo Capra has been shaping Toronto’s Italian scene for decades, and this year feels like a full-circle moment. From his early days at Prego della Piazza to airport trattorias and fine-dining experiments abroad, he’s seen Italian cuisine evolve — and keeps pushing it forward. For Capra, Italian food isn’t nostalgia but a living style that adapts with the times.
Why is Italian food dominating our best new restaurant lists this year?
The world is getting smaller, people travel more and Italians are well integrated here. The next generation feels very Italian, opens beautiful places, explores regional cuisine and brings back new ideas and techniques from Italy.
Italian cuisine is moving toward fusion. Good or bad?
There’s a tale of the three Italys in terms of food. One Italy strictly believes in traditional fare — kilometre zero, local ingredients, amazing taste. Another Italy mixes that with Michelin-star ambitions. Then there’s the Italy that thinks Michelin-star restaurants fail because they don’t respect tradition. I like fusion. I always try to incorporate it in my food.
You went viral for your garlic and pizza comments. Were you stirring the pot?
“That’s the absolute truth. In Italy, garlic isn’t used as much as it is here, partly because the quality is different. And while eating pizza with your hands is fine on the street, in restaurants in Italy you don’t touch your food — it’s just not done.
If you were opening a restaurant for the next generation, what would you skip on the menu?
There are so many things I’d skip. I’m tired of anything foamy, and caesar salad has no place in an Italian restaurant. At Mistura, I never put it on the menu — and for good reason.
Today, some chefs open Italian restaurants without training in Italy. Does that matter?
Back in the ’80s and ’90s, big Italian chefs wanted only Italians in the kitchen. We said, “This is Canada, anyone can work here.” I’ve always had great luck with different people, and I don’t mind if someone didn’t train in Italy — as long as they have passion and understand the product.
