The family behind Sassicaia values critical success but remains true to their roots | Canada Voices

Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta is responsible for showcasing the wines her family makes at Tenuta San Guido, including the renowned Sassicaia label, a top-rated cabernet.

Inspired by the wines of Bordeaux, her grandfather, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, planted cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc vines along with other varieties in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany in the 1940s. The success of cabernet sauvignon on the site led to expanded plantings and the commercial launch of Sassicaia with the 1968 vintage.

Sassicaia’s refreshing and sleek style wasn’t immediately embraced by international critics who championed concentration and mouth-filling flavours. But critical tastes have changed, and Sassicaia is routinely celebrated as one of the most iconic red wines produced in the world. It’s so successful that it is the only Italian wine to be granted its own appellation, Bolgheri Sassicaia, in 1994.

Incisa della Rocchetta visited Toronto and Montreal last week to introduce the 2023 vintage of Sassicaia, which received excellent reviews from international critics who attended its February launch. When she pours her wines, she focuses on sharing details about the estate and the vineyard conditions that contribute to the quality of the red wines, rather than emphasizing 100-point accolades. “We try and tell the story of each vintage,” Incisa della Rochetta said.

She also shared behind-the-scenes stories of Le Difese and Guidalberto, the other two wines produced by San Guido. Sassicaia 2023 will be released at the LCBO and other retailers in October, while Guidalberto 2024 and Le Difese 2024 are slated for release in December and early 2027 respectively.

“Every year is a new adventure for us, which makes it more interesting than producing Coca-Cola,” she said. Incisa della Rocchetta told The Globe about the construction of a custom winery for the cabernet and merlot blend Guidalberto, and how the family continues to craft Sassicaia according to their own taste rather than conforming to external pressures.

The 2023 vintage of Sassicaia is getting rave reviews, including a rare 100-point score from the Wine Advocate. How does this acclaim impact your reception when you introduce your family’s wine in different countries?

It’s flattering when different vintages receive 100 points, especially for Carlo Paoli, our general manager and director of the production team. People often ask me at tastings, “Is this the one that got 100 points?” I don’t focus on that aspect. During these trips, it’s more important for me to hear the opinions of consumers, the press and the trade regarding our wine. They are the critical voices of the industry.

Critical acclaim has contributed to Sassicaia becoming one of the most collectible wines in the world. Do you feel any added pressure to maintaining its success?

You know, we also have many vintages that didn’t get such fantastic scores, especially back in the 1990s. Today’s critics embrace a more elegant style of red wine. We fit in better with the new mindset, but we haven’t adjusted our approach to conform to a certain standard. We continue to produce the wines in the same way.

People who drink Sassicaia do so because they enjoy the style and the identity of the wine. It’s consistent. They would still drink it even if it’s not a 100-point vintage. Some markets are more score-driven than others – perhaps they are less historically connected with wine culture. I don’t think it would make much of a difference in Canada whether it receives a 94 or 100. If we receive 82 points in some year, people will wonder what happened.

What factors in the 2023 growing season improved the quality of Sassicaia?

Every now and then, we experience years where everything is nicely balanced, like 2019, 2021 and 2023, where it’s not a race against time. The weather is not too hot, and it doesn’t rain during harvest. In 2023, there was a minor issue with mildew in the spring, but it was not as severe in Bolgheri as in other parts of Tuscany. Due to our proximity to the ocean, we are always exposed to breezes, ensuring that the vineyards are well-ventilated. There was a bit more work to be done in the spring, but with a good team and a skilled agronomist, everything was managed effectively.

Speaking of vineyard challenges, were you affected by the serious frosts reported across Europe earlier this year?

Frost isn’t often a concern. We have vineyards scattered around the property at various locations and altitudes, which protects against frost. While frost occurrences are rare, when they do happen, they typically only affect a small portion of a vineyard. It’s never dramatic.

How is the cabernet and merlot-based blend, Guidalberto, being promoted to establish its own identity separate from Sassicaia?

In the beginning, Guidalberto was intended to be a wine that was approachable to drink when it was younger, with a different [lower] price point from Sassicaia. People would drink Guidalberto while letting Sassicaia age in their cellars. However, as we celebrate its 25^th anniversary, we have gone back and tasted some of the first vintages and realized that it can age nicely as well. People have been impressed by the approachability and freshness of the 2024 vintage. You can enjoy it when it’s young, but you can also let it age.

Another milestone for Guidalberto is the construction of its own winery. When will that be up and running?

The winery is expected to be completed before summer. After that, the exterior and garden surrounding the winery will need to be finished. It is unlikely we will use it for the 2026 harvest since it will only be a few months after its completion. The plans are to have it ready for 2027. Carlo wants to ensure everything works properly before committing to conducting a full harvest in that winery.

This interview has been edited and condensed.